Hi, My name is Bryan,I just joined the site to try and diagnose a friends truck. I have gotten valuable information from this site in the past with my 1997 f450 and 2000 f350.

The truck is a 2004 6.0 f350. Ever since he had the oil changed and oil and fuel filters changed at jiffy lube he has been experiencing bad starts and rough running when started in the morning. Temperatures have been about 35-45 degrees F.He has been using his block heater plugged in over night that helps with the rough starts.It will still start rough when the block heater is used, just not as bad.No smoke.
With the motor at temperature it idles ok ,but at appx 2000 rpm it sounds choppy almost as though it is missing.
When I hooked his truck up I pulled codes p0113,p0275,p1102and p2199. I found a broken wire for the IAT sensor on the connector to the MAF. The four wires to the maf were reading intermittantly(as I touched them they would work/not). I replaced the MAF/IAT connector,and read no more of the codes above.
When he started the truck this morning(46F) without the block heater the truck ran just as bad as before.
When I scanned the truck today just one code came up p0278.
When I did a KOEoff I got p0565,p0566,p0567,p0568,p0569and p1536.

With KOEO the EGRVP is 1.38v , ICP voltage is.86 @idle ICP pressure is 579psi, IPR duty cycle is 23.44 @idle.FICM voltage is 49v battery is 12.59v with engine off 13.54v with engine on. The ICP voltage,EGRVP,andIPR duty cycle seem high to me, am I wrong?
This truck is bone stock with no aftermarket mods, The truck has had warranty work through ford years ago for the EGR cooler.The IAT2 pigtail looks as though it has been replaced.
I have an AE software kit but am still learning how to operate.
Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

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when I typed KOEO I meant KOER, sorry

 

first I can't believe someone would let jiffy lube touch their 6.0, that is bad news. One of the first things I would look at is to see if it has a factory oil filter cap on it, the filters that come with their own cap tend to be too short and don't completely close off the drain back valve at the bottom of the filter housing, this can cause low oil pressure, low oil flow, starve the HPOP, hard starting, engine damage.

 

yeah I can't believe he took it to jiffy as well. The first thing I asked him when he told me is If they pu in the right oil. I had another friend who let jiffy service his truck and his turbo stopped working,he took it to ford under the 100000 mile warranty they did oil anylasis and said wrong oil stupid. They had put in straight 30w.His truck was fine after that. But my friend did show me his recipt that shows they used rotella 15-40 (that my friend supplied and a wix fuel filter, 2 filters) I dont know if wix kit comes with a new cap or not, but i,ll ask my friend if he remembers the kit having a cap.thanks

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Come to think of it I dont think my friend supplied the oil filter. You might be on to something.Thanks.

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well, I checked the oil filter housing, and it is stock. I checked the oil filter that jiffy lube installed and according to the invoice is a fram # ch9549. The filter is not a fram and says made in korea. I measured that filter to a new fram and found the fram filter is .350 taller and .500 wider. That may explain the problem this truck has been having. I'll know within the next few days if it worked, I figure it will take some time to purge the air out of the oil system.
My question right now is, The oil in the filter canister did not drain down when I removed the filter. It is my understanding that when the filter is removed that the drain valve opens to drain the oil in the resivoir down to the crankcase to be changed,Thae oil did not drain down.Is it possible for this valve to have been damaged by using a "shorter" oil filter? and is this valve serviceable thruogh the top of the canister?

 

that is odd, normally when it breaks it leaks down all the time, yes it is serviceable, it is a common part at the dealerships. The Fram filter like the Ford filter should be Made In Germany.

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it aso might be possible they used a whole oil cooler off a van, they don't have the drain plug because the filter is below the motor but they use the same basic cooler but the dainback is plugged .

 

The fram filter I purchased is made in USA,just got a call from owner he says it seems to run cleaner(less choppy). I'll know in a couple of days.
the stem on the oil filter housing is spring loaded, It would make sense that the oil dose'nt drain down due to it not having that valve, but woud'nt it not have the symptom of the oil draining down each night?
I thank you for the information that you have given it really helped.
I'll post in a couple of days to let you know . Thanks again.
Bryan

 

That spring loaded plunger at top o the "tower" is actually a bypass for when the oil is thicker or when there is a pressure differential of greater then /10lbs??/ it makes sure the engine isn't starved of oil.
You are right about if it plugged up it wouldn't have the symptoms of the oil draining back. did you see the drainback valve in the bottom of the filter housing?
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/att...m-dscf2783.jpg
this is what it looks like, all you see from the top is the black button.

 

Thanks for the reply,I did not see the valve because I did'nt remove the oil from the canister when i put the new filter in.I,m just looking to see if the filter was indeed the problem, if it fixes it I,ll change oil w new filter. When I do that ill remove the oil to see if its a valve or a plug.
The owner called me last night, after the truck sat for 5 hours he started it and it started nicely(previously it would have given him problems with that amount of time).
The owner also called me this morning , and said it had a slight rough start, but much much better than it had been.
How much time does it take to purge air from injectors HPOP, etc?

 

it normally can be purged in about 20 miles, but it help if you romp on it a couple times to realy get the flow up to help purge it.

 

Well truck started up on sunday morning running rough,problem is still there.
today I wanted to see/hear it on first startup but owner fired it up for couple of minutes before I got there. I hooked up computer,pulled all the sensors that I wanted to watch, and I cycled the ignition switch on until I heard fuel pump shut off. coolant temp was 68F. I did that about 8 times and the truck started up ok. The owner was surprised that It ran decent, he thought it would still be running bad as it usually takes 10/15 minutes to clear up. As I accelerated a little I felt it missing pretty bad but after a few minutes it cleared up at idle, but still misses above 1800 rpm,although much less than when it is cold.
Tomorrow I,m going to go hear it start and I though of cycling the fuel pump/ignition switch the same. If it starts up ok is it possible there is a fuel filter issue installation(jiffy lube) possibly aerating the fuel or sucking air,or maybe a "sticktion" issue. Truck has not been reflashed.
He is running rotella15/40 and wix fuel filters.
Problem started day after visit to jiffy lube 4 months ago,truck has been acting like this daily.

 

could be a stiction issue, normally after it hits 140 deg it will run fine. I would pull the fuel filters and make sure everything is kosher with them, also make sure th frame mounted filter has the membrane around it for the water seperation part of the filter.