Yes the Blue spring is highly recommended, ford came out with it because they found the original spring would loose tension and cause low fuel pressure. RevX should work almost immediately, I poured mine in right after I started it up cold and I wasn't even finished pouring in the second bottle and it straightened it right out.

 

Ok checked fuel pressure 42-46 psi KOEO 44-46 @idle , 48 once warmed up between 30-40 WOT.
Just picked up blue spring kit to see if it helps with fuel pressure,probably going after fuel pump if the spring kit doesnt raise fuel pressure enough.
Local ford dealer wanted 440 dollars for a new pump w hfcm canister they dont sell pump separately. ford dealer 20 miles away wants 221 dollars, fordparts.com wants 271,oreillys wants 269 for aftermarket.All these quotes include the hfcm complete. pretty wide range of prices, but looks like I;ll take a ride to save almost $200 bucks.
hopefully the spring kit will bring pressure up to an acceptable range.

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I installed the blue spring kit from ford.
KOEO 60psi
KOER 62psi
WOT couldnt get it below 56psi.
When I first started the truck it sounded smoother, but still had that funky vibration/miss @1800- 2300RPM. I went to 7-117 grabbed a cup of coffee,left truck running. When I came out @1800-2300RPM truck lost the vibration/miss.
It now runs like a striped *** ape.
When I R and R regulator spring I noticed two things, First the nylon bushing that hold the brass piece did not have an o-ring between it and the fuel filter housing.Two there was a piece of something behind the nylon/brass plug at the bottom of the fuel canister. It is plastic rectangular shaped,about 7/16 inch long and about 3/16 to1/8 diameter. I dont know where this could have come from or broken off of.
Now the big question is if it will still have the same bad/funky cold start. I will let you all know.
Also how do I post pictures on this forum? I would like to post a picture to see if you all can figure out where this plastic piece came from.
Thanks Bryan

 

I think the trick is to use Photobucket, and then send the pics here, I would post alot more pics too if I could figure it out, most of the ones I post are from other sites or Bing imiages and I just copy and paste the link. Was that plastic piece kind of keystone shaped? there is a small orangeish piece near the top of regulator housing that is the air bleed to remove air from the fuel bowl.
6.0 fuel regulator - Bing Images

 

No it is not thepiece that you describe. It is black,rectangular 7/16 inch long,3/16 to 1/8 inch diameter. Looks like maybe a piece of plastic from the fuel filter? I think it may have been holding open that brass plunger.
I,ll know tomorrow if it fixed the cold start issue.
Truck does run cosiderably better.

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So, the truck still had a rough start,but noticably better.When it started rough he cycled the ignition switch 8-10 times it lit off smooth and clean and didnt burp after that first cold start. It was below 30 degrees this morning.
For tomorrow morning I asked him to light the truck off,and if it is rough to turn it off, cycle glow plugs and to try again, and see how many cycles it will take to get smooth,starting the truck after each cycle.
Truck runs 100% better than it was powerwise after the blue spring update.Before at a stop giving truck WOT, the truck would lag for 2-3 seconds,and it seemed each shift was drawn out. Now, it spools immediately hammering each shift quickly.Owner is pleased with the improved performance.
I added diselcleen cleaner/lubricant to lube the fuel side of the injectors.
I'll post tomorrow to let you all know how many cycles it takes to light the truck off clean.
I would also like to add that before the bluespring update he could get the truck to run smooth in his driveway by cycling the ignition, but by the end of his street it would run ratty,until the trucked reached operating temp,now with one rough start,and 8-10 times cycling the key it runs smooth and does not go back to running rough. The blue spring worked, I would just like to try to get the truck to light smooth the first time.
Thanks Bryan

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Arrrrgh!, Owner pressure washed engine today. I met him there to pick up some money he owed me. he is pleased at the new found performance of his truck.
As he left he called me to tell me how much power the trruck now has.
About 3 hours later, he called to say truck has lost power, pressing the pedal has little effect.
I scanned and came up with 2 codes (p0046,p2263) turbo related codes.
p0046 is identified as a short to ground,open or short to power to the VGTCV or wiring between PCM and VGCTV.
p2263 this code is used to detect a aircharge hose that has become disconnected,can also be set with any condition that would cause low power.
Do you think that this is related to the pressure wash today? It was running fine leaving the pressure wash place.
I told him to let it sit to dry out.

 

The top of these engines stay pretty dry, I would say it is definately related, make sure the map hose is still connected. I would let it idle for a while then let the heat of the engine dry it out.

 

Alright, so the truck has power back this morning I cleared stored turbo codes and all is good, the pressure wash was the culprit.
The truck still has cold start issues, but cycling the key 5-6 times seems to work, I'm thinking the injectors may have gotten hammered with the low fuel pressure. Will a reflash for stiction issues fix this?
Once the truck is started(after cycling key) it runs awesome all day. The owner may have to do the key cycle dance until he is ready to pop on a set of injectors.
Also hoping the Rev-x and fuel treatment will help this condition over time.
Bobfbigman, Thank you so much for your insight, and the time to respond to my many questions.

 

So, starting engine after each key cycle it started in 7 attempts and ran great all day. Today, cycled key 7 times turning to off position after injectors stop buzzing, not starting beween attempts,and started great and ran great all day.
Do you think a flash for stiction issues will cure it? Or are the injectors toast?