Is this the first oil change since he purchased the truck, or just the first one at Jiffy lube? If it is the first one since he got the truck, it is quite possible that the previous owner was using an oil additive to combat stiction issues, and changing out the oil without oil additive has caused the problem to re-surface.

Later,

Keith

 

he is original owner,always takes his truck to a quick lube(jiffy etc).He has run cetane additive for the fuel and oil additive although I,m not sure which one.
Regarding the fuel filter, I had read in a forum that the aftermarket filters do not have a weep hole to purge air from the fuel filter canister, and you end up with half air and half fuel(only half of the filter gets used). Also perhaps, if the o ring was not lubricated or the lid not tight, or a cracked lid or housing may cause a bleed down or aeration problem.

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Okay, I just spoke with the owner. I got called in to work this morning so I was'nt there . He cycled the ignition switch 10 times each time waiting until the fuel pump cycled and shut of(koeo). When he started it it ran fine. Three minutes at idle it started to run bad. He shut it down and went inside to grab a coffee. When he came out he cycled the ignition 4 times and it started right up clean and he drove it to where he needed to go.It was cold this morning,and the fact that he was able to get the truck drivable simply by cycling the ignition switch is huge ,I think that we are on the right track.

 

He would really benifit from 2 bottles of RevX in the oil and Ford Motorcraft fuel filter. would straighten him right out.

 

I,m putting on motorcraft fuel filters tomorrow. I inspected the top fuel bowl cap for leaks and cleaned the oring mating surface on the fuel bowl(it had orange residue from old oring).
I noticed the wix upper fuel filter has that bogus metal crimp for the pleat. What a joke.That is the only part of the filter that is dirty, right between two of the three crimps on that pleat.
I live in ventura ca is there a local distributor that stocks Rev-x or would I have to order?
Thanks for all the replys bobfbigman.

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I,m putting on motorcraft fuel filters tomorrow. I inspected the top fuel bowl cap for leaks and cleaned the oring mating surface on the fuel bowl(it had orange residue from old oring).
I noticed the wix upper fuel filter has that bogus metal crimp for the pleat. What a joke.That is the only part of the filter that is dirty, right between two of the three crimps on that pleat.
I live in ventura ca is there a local distributor that stocks Rev-x or would I have to order?
Thanks for all the replys bobfbigman.

 

Where to Buy REV X | REV-X Products, Inc.

 

Ok,I purchased 2 bottles of Rev-X and installed it with fresh oil ( 5-40). Put in motorcraft fuel filters. The bottom filter had issues.
The filter had a horizontal line acoss the top third of the filter(completely clean above the line).
I had read a post here about the aftermarket filters not having a weep hole on the filter to purge air out of the canister. The Motorcraft filter did not have this weep hole.
Second, the filter installed on the truck appears to be the wrong filter. The motor craft has a snout with an oring that is installed facing the front of the truck(snout goes forward), the aftermarket filter has not snout,and no oring. It would apper to me that the aftermarket filter was not, could not, filter fuel. Thankfully the truck has the 2 micron up on top,but my question would be, Could the fuel pump have been damaged by the dirt or grit in that canister getting by it?
Needless to say the truck is still acting up in the morning when cold.
By cycling the ignition until hearing the fuel pump shut off 5-10 time truck starts right up.
I know normally electric fuel pumps just die, but has anyone had a fuel pump giving problems when cold?
I may have to invest in a fuel pressure test kit, just curious what you all think.
Thanks Bryan

 

If you have the tool to remove the fuel lines from the pump housing it would realy pay off to remove the whole pump/filter housing from the truck, might take 5 minutes, and give it a good cleaning. I am always on top of filter changes but I was suprised at the amount of crap tha gets left in there after filter has been changed and even after the water has been drained.

 

Bobfbigman, Thank for the reply. I plan on taking the hfcm down for a cleaning,would you happen to have a part number for the square o ring(with three or for winows in it)? Are there any other parts I may need to remove,clean, and replace the hfcm? and would you reccomend putting the upgraded brass drain valve for the hfcm?I think ford has a part number for that.
Should I open the regulator ang spring off the top canister to clean it and flush the tube all the way down?And would that oring need replaced if I opened it up?
Also, how long does it take for the rev-x additive to take effect?
And lastly tomorrow morning I plan on checking fuel pressure with a kit I had made up,what is the pressure range that I should be looking for KOEO,KOER,and engine running with load WOT.
Sorry for all the questions today,I really appreciate the time that you have taken to respond to my questions.
Thanks Bryan

 

I don't have the prt number for that oring on the side of the pump, I just reused mine and it was fine, on my old pump the drain bolt was so rusted and wouldn't come out so to drain water I would loosen up that housing to drain it, never had an issue withit leaking.
I wouldn't mess with the regulator housing unless you were putting the BLUE SPRING in it.
The fuel pressure should be around 60-65psi at idle and normal driving, the key is to keep it above 50 psi even at WOT. below that the plunger can actually hit the tip of the injector, it needs that fuel pressure to "cushion" the plunger, when you hear of people busting the tip off an injector it is most common that they had very low fuel pressure that caused it.
And yes get the brass plug, my ford dealer had the part number after I asked them to look it up, they listed it cheaper then the steel one.

 

More than likely the truck does not have the upgraded spring, Is the new blue spring reccomended?
How long does it take for rev-x to take "effect"
Thanks Bryan