edge cts settings
#1
edge cts settings
i have a stock 2004 f 250 6.0 only a egr delete done 140,000 mile and nine years of service and still going strong just installed a edge cts and i would like to know what would normal reads be. like the max eot or boost or others what would you monitor or set your alarms at also i am pulling a 36 foot trailer at 11000 pounds sometimes thanks for your help this site has been a ton of help thanks to all for the imfo everyone gives.
#2
No other mods on the truck?
The truck will basically protect itself from real emergency situations, if EOT gets too hot it will actually cut fuel on it's own, ask me how I know.
I would keep an eye on EOT and ECT together though, the temp differences is what's important here, more so than an overall temp of each. They should never really spread more than 15* apart. If they do, it's likely your oil cooler is clogging and needs rebuilding/replacing. Clogged oil coolers are usually what cause the blown EGR coolers and blown headgaskets, believe it or not. There really isn't a "max boost" but most normal trucks will run around 22-24 unloaded and you might see as high as 30 with that much weight behind it. No worries there, my poor stocker has maxed my 35psi gauge a few times.
What else is done to the truck? A coolant filter would be a good idea to keep that oil cooler clean and is relatively inexpensive.
The truck will basically protect itself from real emergency situations, if EOT gets too hot it will actually cut fuel on it's own, ask me how I know.
I would keep an eye on EOT and ECT together though, the temp differences is what's important here, more so than an overall temp of each. They should never really spread more than 15* apart. If they do, it's likely your oil cooler is clogging and needs rebuilding/replacing. Clogged oil coolers are usually what cause the blown EGR coolers and blown headgaskets, believe it or not. There really isn't a "max boost" but most normal trucks will run around 22-24 unloaded and you might see as high as 30 with that much weight behind it. No worries there, my poor stocker has maxed my 35psi gauge a few times.
What else is done to the truck? A coolant filter would be a good idea to keep that oil cooler clean and is relatively inexpensive.
#3
thanks for reply will install coolant filter soon and pull rad and get my brother to pull rad top tank off and rod out i used to own a radiator repair shop for 30 years got out of it 5 years ago i have rodded out a ton of radiators with that brown sludg and fine core sand. most radiator core fins do not catch it most of the time but never think a flush will unclog a radiator i know that it will clog coolers though i will do radiator because its free only problem i have had with truck is sticking egr valve.
#5
#8
More like "when" it goes bad, not "if." Keep an eye on it. The coolant filter will greatly reduce the risk of it having issues. The EOT and ECT should tell you exactly how it's doing. You're already off to a much better start than most. Probably 90% of 6.0 owners don't even know to keep an eye on it, and even some of the ones that do, still don't.
It wont happen overnight, but they slowly build up debris and clog. Two thoughts to this, one is the silicate falls out of suspension in the coolant that Ford uses, so you'll see a lot of guys recommend changing it out for some sort of ELC coolant, CAT coolant being the most popular and Rotella has one too. Few choices there. I'm not sold on that one, and will be using Ford Gold again when my new oil cooler goes in mine next weekend or so. (I keep saying this every week ). The other thought is the block material itself is made by a process known as sand casting. Over time some of the sand particulates break off in the coolant system and clog the oil cooler. There's a few different ways to point the finger here, but really all that matters is you're aware of it and to keep an eye on it. There are fixes, but what you're doing is good enough. If you're feeling saucy, BPD (bulletproof diesel) sells an external oil cooler, that completely alleviates this issue, but it's almost $2k. Stock OEM oil cooler rebuild kit with new core is like $275...
It wont happen overnight, but they slowly build up debris and clog. Two thoughts to this, one is the silicate falls out of suspension in the coolant that Ford uses, so you'll see a lot of guys recommend changing it out for some sort of ELC coolant, CAT coolant being the most popular and Rotella has one too. Few choices there. I'm not sold on that one, and will be using Ford Gold again when my new oil cooler goes in mine next weekend or so. (I keep saying this every week ). The other thought is the block material itself is made by a process known as sand casting. Over time some of the sand particulates break off in the coolant system and clog the oil cooler. There's a few different ways to point the finger here, but really all that matters is you're aware of it and to keep an eye on it. There are fixes, but what you're doing is good enough. If you're feeling saucy, BPD (bulletproof diesel) sells an external oil cooler, that completely alleviates this issue, but it's almost $2k. Stock OEM oil cooler rebuild kit with new core is like $275...
#9
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