06 f250 6.0L powerstoke or 96 dodge cummins 3500 5.9L
#1
06 f250 6.0L powerstoke or 96 dodge cummins 3500 5.9L
I'm a dodge guy but i wanted to know the problems prone to each truck, so i can pick the least problematic, and truck i can have more fun in without dumping my paycheck into it any help? so 96 dodge cummins 3500 5.9L or 06 f250 6.0L powerstroke?
#2
Depends on what you plan to do with it. What are your power goals? How will the truck be used? How far do you want to go with it? It's a loaded question.
Since you're in the 6.0 section we can point some things out for that. The 06/07 years are some of the better IMO, but not perfect. There are a few things I would do to that year right off the bat, just to ensure reliability, and a few things I would check on the truck in question before purchasing as well.
How many miles on each truck? What are the cab/bed configurations? What transmissions in each?
The 6.0, likely an auto, has one of the best auto transmissions available to a light duty diesel (arguably the best). The bottom end is super strong, the stock valve train has been spun up over 1000 rwhp without issue. The weak points are usually the headgaskets and EGR systems. I would bring a scanner and monitor the oil and coolant temp to ensure the health of the oil cooler, or just plan on doing a coolant flush and oil cooler rebuild right off the bat (if you get truck cheap enough). The FICM can also be a problem point which would cause hard starts, poor running etc, but very easily fixable for not a lot of money. The headgaskets should really only be of concern if you want to add some power to it. If you're keeping it stock, do an EGR delete, a coolant filter, some gauges, a 4" exhaust, and an SCT with tuning to shut the check engine light off (maybe a MILD tune if you don't want to do the studs).
It will certainly ride nicer and look better than the Dodge, at least in my opinion, but you'll find differing opinions on that. The trans in the Dodge, if an auto wont hold crap for power without needing to be built, and if it's a manual will likely need a clutch with any added power.
Again, most of this will depend on your plans for the truck.
Since you're in the 6.0 section we can point some things out for that. The 06/07 years are some of the better IMO, but not perfect. There are a few things I would do to that year right off the bat, just to ensure reliability, and a few things I would check on the truck in question before purchasing as well.
How many miles on each truck? What are the cab/bed configurations? What transmissions in each?
The 6.0, likely an auto, has one of the best auto transmissions available to a light duty diesel (arguably the best). The bottom end is super strong, the stock valve train has been spun up over 1000 rwhp without issue. The weak points are usually the headgaskets and EGR systems. I would bring a scanner and monitor the oil and coolant temp to ensure the health of the oil cooler, or just plan on doing a coolant flush and oil cooler rebuild right off the bat (if you get truck cheap enough). The FICM can also be a problem point which would cause hard starts, poor running etc, but very easily fixable for not a lot of money. The headgaskets should really only be of concern if you want to add some power to it. If you're keeping it stock, do an EGR delete, a coolant filter, some gauges, a 4" exhaust, and an SCT with tuning to shut the check engine light off (maybe a MILD tune if you don't want to do the studs).
It will certainly ride nicer and look better than the Dodge, at least in my opinion, but you'll find differing opinions on that. The trans in the Dodge, if an auto wont hold crap for power without needing to be built, and if it's a manual will likely need a clutch with any added power.
Again, most of this will depend on your plans for the truck.
#3
Two words on the Dodge, lift pump Wen they go bad they have a bad habit of taking out the injector pump and it costs you a $2,000 dollar bill. You really have no idea when they are going bad and the truck does not shut down, the injector has enough suction to keep going, for a while...
Check the block, there were two models, one was made in Mexico (the good one) and one was made someplace else. They developed a crack in a thin area which could be fixed with a process called "metal stitching" that is very effective but time consuming.
The Dodges had a lot of rust issues in the body as well. Lower doors and bed corners as I remember reading. They also have considerably more in cabin noise, you never wonder if its running.
I almost bought a 99 3500 but we could not get together on a price. Even with all its faults I am glad I went with the 07 F-250. From what I can tell the only problems with the Ford are under the hood, well known, and when fixed the motor is pretty well bullet proof.
Seems all of these diesel trucks have something going on, you just get to pick the type of poison.
Check the block, there were two models, one was made in Mexico (the good one) and one was made someplace else. They developed a crack in a thin area which could be fixed with a process called "metal stitching" that is very effective but time consuming.
The Dodges had a lot of rust issues in the body as well. Lower doors and bed corners as I remember reading. They also have considerably more in cabin noise, you never wonder if its running.
I almost bought a 99 3500 but we could not get together on a price. Even with all its faults I am glad I went with the 07 F-250. From what I can tell the only problems with the Ford are under the hood, well known, and when fixed the motor is pretty well bullet proof.
Seems all of these diesel trucks have something going on, you just get to pick the type of poison.
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