OK, so here is another for the smart guys in here. To start off with a little bit of history, the truck has recently had a very hard time starting or not starting at all, especially when the temps drop below zero F, even with the truck plugged in. I have recently changed out the block heater and the trickle charger on the batteries and all that is good, but the problem continues. Today I was letting her warm up a bit since I got her started and took off to make a short run (less than 5 total miles) and the CEL came on. I pulled the following codes with the SCT Livewire and have no idea what they are, so here is the list: P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0282 and P0611. I have had the batteries checked, on the truck not outside, and they were good, as well as the charging system. I am planning on getting new batteries as soon as I get the cash. But in the interim, any help with the codes will be appreciated.

 

http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_094.jpg
those are all injector codes, most likely the FICM is weak, have you tested it? sometimes eve if they test good they are still defective, when you get that many injector codes all of the sudden that generally points to the FICM. Don't know what the p0611 is though, maybe glowplug module but not sure.

 

Bob, P0611 is a FICM code... go figure.

I'd have the batteries tested individually OFF of the truck... only real way to do it, then test your FICM.

 

So I know that this is just a shot in the dark, but would it be better to upgrade the ficm and just replace the batteries? Just to be on the safe side so to speak. I know I have seen some "upgraded" FICM's somewhere, but not sure where to go for these. Suggestions would be helpful. I do have some funds available, and would rather not deal with possible issues in the future. By the way, the same time this is getting fixed, I am going to get the blue spring upgrade put in. That just leaves EGR cooler and exhaust to play with.

 

No need in replacing anything until you test to verify it's bad first, at least that's my thoughts. I hate spending money on un-needed parts. If the batteries are weak, it could just be causing weak FICM voltage, so the FICM may be fine, but you don't know until you test it with GOOD batteries. If the batteries are good, the FICM is likely bad... but again, can't know one without the other. If you really want, you can just go ahead and replace, that's your call.

As for FICM's, you can buy a new one ($900+ programming) and likely have the same issue again down the road
buy a 1/2 shell from Ford ($400ish)
buy a 1/2 shell from International (supposedly around $200)
buy a BPD FICM (best IMO, but a lot of money...)
or have your current one repaired, $200 and under.

My vote goes for BPD or a repair job. The other options will leave you in this same spot later down the road.

 

As soon as I get the chance I will pull the batteries and take them somewhere to get load tested. If they turn out fine, I will see what I can do to get the FICM tested. I already talked to the stealership and they want $750 for a new FICM with the program. I did get the PM, and may take you up. Will have to see what the testing says.

 

$750 is the cheapest I've seen... make sure it's the entire FICM and not just the 1/2 shell for that price...

 

OK, so the batteries checked out OK, so the next step is the FICM. Unfortunately the bottom is supposed to fall out with temps to the -40/-50 F range over the weekend. Guess testing will have to wait til it warms up.

 

Ouch.

 

Well fellas here is the final verdict. The FICM was in fact bad, mostly due to batteries that tested OK but still wouldn't hold a charge, so new FICM, new batteries and while I was at it, I went ahead and did the blue spring upgrade. Only thing left now is EGR and exhaust, and she should be done.