I did a bench test on it. Had it completely out of the truck and did the 12v test on it. Cleaned it with some cleaner ran some air still nothing. Pulled the screen cleaned some more then blew through it got airflow. Re hooked up 12v source tried to blow through it and couldnt now. Plus now it sounds like something is moving every time i hook a 12v source to it. Still going to do a pressure test on the HPOP system then stick the IPR back in and see if it fires up. If it does then im buying a new one just to be sure.

The connector is fine and not brittle the heat wrap was still on it and velcro was still good.

 

Ok did a air pressure test and no leaks found. Found out #1 and #6 injector were replaced back before it started its problems.

Put it all back together except bolting the turbo all the way back down(incase of another removal). Went through 3 cycles because it was around 20degrees today and tried to crank. She poofed just a little white smoke out the tail pipe. Smelt like lacquer from years gone by but most likely just crap in the line itself because tanks are both loaded with treated diesel and it smells good

Anyways still a no start condition ... retested all voltages and everything ok. Spun it a forth time and she started to fire up and i was all sorts a fat kid in a candy store..... but unknown to my knowledge my pops was under the hood feeding his junky its candy. But the truck didnt pop its head or kill over. Instead she blew out a ton of black smoke and then cleared up went into a normal idle and ran beautifully. Man was that a nice sound hearing that rattle can you guys call a engine puring. Dad had a smile from ear to ear because this is the first time it has started in almost 2 years.

Anyways i shut her down due to turbo not fully connected and not enough antifreeze to keep the truck at temp. But i heard of miracles on here and tried to start it back up and nope a no start again ...... so i cranked it again and what do you know my dad and his FORD crack got it started again.

Sorry for the long story but i want you to know everything. The FORD crack was only administered during crank and not through any cycles . SO NO DAMAGE AND LIKE YOU GOOD PEOPLE I DONT BELIEVE IN IT.

So
1. No leaks
2. IPR works again
3. Oil reservoir about 1/4 from the top on the HPOP
4. Truck started for the first time in almost 2 years.
5. Only starts with (shutters) ether but runs great afterwards.

Your ideas?

My Ideas:
Replace Stand pipes, dummy plugs, STC, IPR, ICP, GPCM, Oil change/Filter, both fuel filters. Check all injector o-rings and anything i can get my hands on outside of taking the engine out that deals with this POS HPOP system. I dont care about throwing money at it as long as this truck will last another 100,000 or more.

If you can help with what needs to absolutely be OEM and what i can go aftermarket on i would be more than appreciative. Part numbers and websites or stores that carry them in the wyoming area would be awesome too. Please dont say im throwing money and not finding the problem. I know im doing it so this POS ford will last another 100,000. The only one thing im choking down is the price of the HPOP if i absolutely have to replace it. I was surfing the web and figured around 800 to 1000 to replace everything above. I hope im in the right price range. If its below or around 800 im getting AE for sure!

 

I'd do the dummy plugs, the stand pipes (that kit is ~$120), the STC fitting (~$38), the IPR is your call but if it works I wouldn't touch it. Maybe just replace the screen and o-ring on it. The GPCM I'd leave alone unless there's a problem with it? Why are you wanting to replace that? The glow plug setups on these are pretty stout. You can test each glow plug individually and the GPCM to ensure they're all working too. The oil and filter change is a good idea as well as fuel filters, only use motorcraft or international filters for both oil and fuel, NO EXCEPTIONS. If you're going to inspect the injector o-rings, just go ahead and replace them, they're cheap enough.

I can't see any of that costing anywhere near $800.

Stand pipe dummy plug kit $120
STC kit $38
Fuel filters from an international shop maybe $35
oil filter (walmart has the motorcraft filters) $20
IPR is like $135 if memory serves.... if you even replace it
I wouldn't replace ICP either unless you're sure there's an issue with it...

AE with enhanced Ford bundle is $361ish from KT Performance on here.

 

My concern with the GPCM is that it only starts with the devil juice and runs excellent after its started no hiccups no power loss no excess smoke just like the day he bought it. Except it wont start..... ive seen equipment that were ether junkies but never a truck. So my instant thought is a glow plug issue not the HPOP because if the HPO system is failing wouldnt it cause the truck to atleast run bad not just a no start?

Also my pops is talking about programming this truck or whatever can the AE do that or is it just a Diag tool?

 

AE is a diagnostic tool, but you can use it for other things like changing the speedo read out and reading the code for your door locks etc.

Get the truck running right first and then we can talk programmers.

There's not many things that would cause a no start, usually weak batteries, a dying FICM, or high pressure oil issues.

Again, it may be a glow plug issue, but I certainly wouldn't just throw parts at it, I HATE replacing parts that don't need to be replaced. That money could have been used for something more fun like the programmer you're wanting.

To test the GPCM and the glow plugs, read the attached PDF I have here, it gives the specs to test all of that. They rarely go bad on these trucks. If it's warm where you are, it's definitely not the glow plugs anyways. Section 11 in the PDF talks about the glow plugs and their operations.

 

Im in wyoming we usually sit -20 to -60 this time of year. Ok ill test the glow plugs and the GPCM and im not concerned about a programmer ... he is.

 

A simple way to see if the glow plugs are drawing anything... park the truck with the front end facing a garage door or something, and turn the headlights on, then try and start the truck. If after a minute or so you see the headlights get brighter all of a sudden, you know the glow plugs are drawing power. It at least tells you SOMETHING is working, but checking the resistance on everything is obviously the best way.

LOL, tell him we suggested forgetting about the programmer until it's running correctly, once that's out of the way, SCT with custom tunes should be the ONLY thing he's looking at.

 

I wouldn't call what you are doing as "throwing parts at it" I would call it in this situation as Maintinance. You have a good plan but there are a couple other things to look into, I would get the injector Oring kits that have all the Orings, can't get them from ford but they are available on Ebay, they have the Oring for the top of injector where the oil rail slips into the top of injector, The kit is about $11 compared to the basic kit wich is $5 from ford. There are also Orings on those nipples on the oil rail that can leak.
Ford 6 0L Oil Rail Repair Kit Tool and O Rings High Pressure Oil Leak Fix | eBay
otors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2ebaf951ca&vxp=mtr

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New Ford 6 0 6 0L Powerstroke Injector O Ring Kit | eBay

 

Yikes... Pensacola diesel! Hopefully their o-ring kits are better than their injectors!

 

There are other listings, just putting that up to show what the kit looks like. These kits were only available to rebuilders till about a year ago, it might be the rebuilders that are reselling them. These kits are alot cheaper then replacing the whole injector like you used to have to do if the top Oring was damaged.

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Ford Powerstroke Injector O Ring Kit 6 0L 8 Sets AP002 3C3Z 9229 AA CM5055 | eBay
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