Man. I hope you cleaned the oil pan real good, all those small bearings can get sucked up into the oil pump and destroy it. Pull your IPR again and inspect screen, if torn or damaged replace the screen and make sure the IPR valve is clear of debri. It is very common for the IPR to get junk in it after a HPOP replacement, happens all the time.

 

yup removed oil pan. cleaned out. all that i found in pan was a few slivers and about 4 zip tie ends stuck in the pick up a lil bit of grey silicon on there too nothing major. i think that there is no bearing there just a seal. ipr is new. when i had cooler out i cleaned out the oil passage from the cooler to the pump new screen under cooler old one was damaged. too thin of oil??? 0w40 full synthetic??? its sub zero up here and never had an issue before. this no start hot issue was there about 7 months before the pump went out..

 

Pull the IPR again, even a brand new IPR can get damaged after an HPOP install. Also, did you do a VC9 flush AFTER you installed the new oil cooler?

The no hotstart is a high pressure oil leak. Has the STC fitting been updated? What about the updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, have those been put in?

 

Ipr is new pulled out when I did cooler after high pressure pump. I know I have more then one problem here. Yes New one piece stc came with the pump. New stand pipes. Not dummy plugs. I hate just throwing unnecessary parts without a reason. But I'm at a loss. As for the temperature delta that's another issue. Grrrrrrrrrrr. Thanks for all the help guys I'll get therr............... Eventually

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I flushed with vc9 after pump replacement and again before cooler. My oil and filter has been changed two times as well. This repair is starting to get a lil pricey.

 

How many miles on the truck since the HPOP replacement? Ford says 3k rpms for 3 minutes, or go out and flog on it pretty good. Is there a chance you still have air that needs to be bled out of the high pressure oil system?

 

About 200 or so runs and drives great just no restart ran probably 4 hours since. Cold she cranks about 2 revolution then she's smoking away

 

Stupid question here... do you have more than one temperature sensor for the eot? If you have stock and aftermarket obviously you are reading correct temperature... but if just the stock sensor it could be a sensor that is jacked up. I don't know enough about the system to help otherwise, if your water flow and oil flow to the cooler are good I am baffled.

Keith

 

Yeah I'm thinking ill swap out that sensor to try. I hope to get some n2 this weekend and bump up the air pressure

 

No nitrogen as of yet but I did install my new eot sensor and that has rectified my temperature difference. So I'm just waiting for the nitrogen fairy to stop in and bump me up. Thanks for all the advise so far ill keep you posted.

 

Sorry if this has already been covered, but I didn't see it... you are closing the IPR valve with an outside 12 volt source before air testing the system right?