Hi guys you all have been great helping me with my dodge, my buddy just bought an 07 f350 crew cab dually with the 6.0 has 107,500 miles on it. The truck runs very good and has never been modified. We would like to know what we need to fix first on the truck to make it live a long healthy life. He plans on just putting an exhaust and filter kit on it for now. Its going to be his daily driver and we both know some of the 6.0s problems, just wanted to hear from the experts. Thanks for any info.

 

Stock filter is amazing for the 6.0, some flow better, some filter better, but the stocker is the best balance of the two. As far as fixes, ARP head studs HAVE THE HEADS CHECKED WHEN YOU DO THIS, Ford head gaskets (Black Onyx are JUNK), EGR upgrade (or delete if your state allows), coolant filter, new oil cooler (in case the current one is already on it's way to plugging), 1 piece stand pipes, new dummy plugs, exhaust is definitely a good idea to keep the EGTs down some (plus it just sounds downright BADASS!!!). All of that will fetch a price-tag of about $3500 if you do it all at once (makes it easier, why tear down the top end twice) and do the work yourself (easy $7-8k for the stealership to do it) Be METICULOUS on maintenance! I'm probably missing a couple items right now, but it has been a long day and someone else (Mike) will likely fill in the blanks.

Welcome, it's not a bad engine once you do some tinkering on it, I actually really enjoyed tearing into mine

 

thanks, I know the 6.0 is a good engine stock just has some issues. I don't think he's looking to turn it up so would head studs be nessasary?

 

Stock they blow head gaskets. So they need better studs to TRY and hold it together.


Getting paid to do this.

 

It's really a gamble, there are some bone stock trucks that have never been hot rodded around that blow the gaskets within 100k. Then there are some running a hot tune on stock gaskets and TTY bolts that are running fine. The major problems are the EGR and oil coolers, the stock coolers get plugged up with sediment, casting sand and whatever other junk is floating around in the coolant hence why a coolant filter is (in my opinion) the least expensive ($130) insurance policy for your engine. Once the cooler(s) become(s) clogged, the coolant cannot flow and the EGR cooler flash boils it, which leads to blowing head gaskets very quickly if the truck continues to be driven.

A less expensive route is:
1) Coolant filter
2) EOT and ECT gauges and monitor the spread between the two, a 15° delta is a tell-tale sign of a clogged oil cooler.
3) Pyrometer...EGTs KILL!!!
Then you can save pulling off the heads until you have the cash but just remember, there is no way to know the condition of your gaskets until you open her up (my driverside gasket was on the verge of failure when I did mine "just to be safe", I got very lucky)

 

If you're not tuning it, forget the studs for now.

EGR delete, coolant filter, gauges, exhaust and leave the stock intake on it. Stay on top of maintenance, use ONLY OEM Ford/International fuel and oil filters, no exceptions. Use a good quality synthetic oil. Most here change their oil between 5k and 7.5k miles. Fuel filters every 10k-15k.

They're nice trucks, just have to stay up on things with them.

 

Whats the going price to have the head gaskets changed and put in head studs? I know the cab has to be removed and neither of us has the facilitys for that.

 

You can do HGs and ARPs cab on, that's how I did mine, it's a lot of heavy lifting. As far as pricing goes:

Studs and gaskets ONLY (along with o-rings and gaskets needed to do it)- $1024 (BulletProof Diesel)
Replace EGR and oil coolers at the same time- $855 additional (IPR extreme duty)
Professional package (Updated Turbo Drain Tube, Fuel Filters, Fuel Filter O-Ring Kit, Turbo Pigtail Harness, Oil Pressure Sender, Oil Filter, Injector Pressure Regulator Screen Kit, Fan Clutch Wire Harness Saver, EGR Valve O-Rings and HPOP Fitting Upgrade Kit)- $220 additional (BulletProof Diesel)
Coolant filter kit- $130
Oil and Coolant- Check local pricing

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Ok I stand corrected on the IPR coolers, their EGR cooler is the same quality as the BulletProof but the oil cooler with its enlarged coolant passages flows the coolant a little too well and it doesn't have enough time to effectively transfer the heat into the coolant

 

Asking for my own knowledge, where (who) explained this issue with the IPR cooler??

 

New aftermarket oil cooler - slightly larger holes for coolant flow - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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