I was thinking these were used in the instrument cluster..not the dash switches and such.

 

WOW that is a lot of work but very trick

 

well i finally kicked this project off. i got the door pannels done for the most part, the aux swithces and the 4wd selector ****. they look preatty nice with the white led's. if my smart (dumb) phone will ever work ill get some pics uploaded.

 

Waiting for those pics...

 

so i got these im some sort of an order. the picture of the bottom side of the circuit board. i circled the 4 spots that need to be de soldered and re-soldered with the new led's

door switches

as far as getting out of the holder. there is 4 clips holding the switch itself in you just got to work at them and adventualy you will get it out

the get the rocker part of the switch off, this part i was a little skepticle of doing, but you if you look you will notice one side is a little lower than the other underneath the switch. you just need to take a flat head screwdriver and pry up on it. there was only a couple that i did that one or two of the retaining didnt break but they will still hold. atleast i didnt have any problems at all.

dash cluster

for the dash......thats a whole nother story that was a pain in the ***. the cluster is not a coupe hour job at all. when you get it out. you have to take it apart. its fairly easy. if you look at it you should be able to figure it out. if you are doing this project and need some help on this pm me and i will help you out as much as possible. anyways. when you get the clear part off the actual cluster you need to take the needles off. take lots of pictures or you will be doing what i have to, take it all back apart to adjust them. but what i did is i took a but serving fork and used it to pry the needles. off. slowly work them up. if you are affraid you are going to break them STOP becuase you will break them.
after you get the needls or you need to take the face plate off. this is easy but a long painfull process. what i did is i took a blow dryer and one of those stupid "savers" cards that you have 100 of laying around your house because you always for get yours. while heating up the cover , be careful not to melt it, work the card underneath the plastic working it all the way around and you will adventually get it off.

then you will see the clips to get the circuit board out. theses are tricky. i took a piece of duck tape and put it on the end of a flat head to use the to push while i pinched the clips. you will get it out preatty easy. be carefull not to break off any of the resistors or capacitors.

then you can order direct replacements for the bulbs you take out. or you can do it the way i did just solders led's in where you took the bulbs out. the most upper part is positive and the most bottom part is negitive. if you do solder it in you will need a resistor to step the voltage down or you will pop the led causing it to shrot cicruit your whole board. then then your up **** creek

as far as the digital readout. you will need a red and a purple plastic film. you will need to rub th green tint off. i used the same serving fork for this and some rubbing alchahol. the film i found at micheals hobby or arts and crafts store whatever the hell it is. but it was by the wrapping paper. when i cut the right sizes out. i set my over to 220 degrees and folded on over the other and baked them together so it looks nice and neat.

to get the film off the back of the numbers on the speedo and tach. take a piece of 220 sand paper and just sand off the BACK side of the plastic cover. dont worry about scratching the white. it does nothing besides deflect a little light. there will be what us painters call a chase coat, then a darker coat of like a paint. then there will be a green tint. after you get to the green tint stop and wipe it off. hold it up to the light and see where your at. i wont hurt if you go deep, it will just be a little lighter than other spots, when you hold it up to the light you will see what spots need more sanding.

i didnt get any pictures of the cluster being done beacues the wife had my phone. but if you watch the attatched videos you will see how to do it. they just use a dremol instead of sand paper

when you are done i recoment plugging it into the truck to make sure it works, so you dont have to go through the effort of taking it back apart.

if you have a lariat with the back up sensors, this is a fun one, the back up sensor is a pain in the ***. i have to take mine back apart to fix it becusae its a "female dog" in nice terms

the pedal moving switch and the rear sliding window switch are also a pain in the ***. i will make a post on those in a few days. i have to fix mine so i will get some pictures.

there will be more to come and by all means if you are tackeling this and have questions. pm me. dont experiment. it can get really costly really fast. im usually by my phone and i get emails on it

 

the tbc fault is because i have it disconected to try and change the color but it shows how the red and purple film change the readout to white

 

as far as bulbs go i recomend these

for the cluster
194 LED Bulb - 5 LED Wide Angle Wedge Base | Instrument Cluster and Gauge | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

and for everything else i just used 5mm bulbs off amazon i pait 14 bucks for 100 led's and 200 resistors, 100 high voltage 100 low voltage

there are some cases where these would be nice and some where you need them
T10 Flat Led Bulb 194 1w - Buy T10 Flat Led Bulb,T10 Flat Led Bulb,T10 Flat Led Bulb Product on Alibaba.com
like in your steering wheel controls