Alright, so I posted this on the ORG and didn't get much of a response. I need help pretty bad.. I'm going to re post on here what I had over there, maybe some geniuses here will chime in.

LONG cranks/ dies at idle after EGR delete. 2004 F350 Short bed 6.0

Ok, truck has been sitting for 2 weeks. Had the EGR tig welded shut with a plate of Stainless steel on both ends. It wasn't ruptured, just doing it to prevent anything in the future. I did not do the oil cooler, as much as I know I probably should. Just cant afford it right now. Eventually I will do a coolant flush and a new oil cooler, for now, just fresh Zerex G-05 (I know) coolant And an oil change with the usual Rotella T-6.

So the first time I put everything back together and started it, I had a major oil leak and lost 3-4 qts. Truck actually died from lack of oil in the HPOP before I noticed the leak. Turbo drain tube wasn't in good.. tore it all back down, replaced it with the updated drain tube. Got everything back together, put another gallon of Rotella T-6 in (I changed the oil before ever starting it the first time). Now it takes VERY long cranks to get it to start, about 15-20 seconds of cranking sometimes, usually at least 10. This wasn't the case when I cranked it up the first time before the oil leak.

Also had a coolant leak at the donut gasket where the intake manifold meets the front cover, $75 for that stupid oversized O-ring.

It will idle for a short while, buck/surge and then die, like it has a loss of fuel or High pressure oil. It ran for a good 3-5 minutes on the first initial startup, even had it on high idle. Was able to rev it to about 2300 no problem. Now it idles for like 20 seconds and dies. Also have what LOOKS like some serious blowby coming out of my oil dipstick tube.. Checked for DTC's with my SCT, none found?

I have an Edge CS/ Evo that I got used in hopes of monitoring her, but its VIN locked to a Chevy, Edge Customer service checked the Serial and said it is compatible with mine and should still work for gauges, but I cant get it to work, keeps saying it needs to write a new file to my truck and when I say OK, it reboots and repeats.

The engine (not injector/ficm) wiring harness is also chaffed pretty bad Where some sensors branch off the main unit by the Oil filter housing (will post a pic). Could this be my problem? Ford wants $500-750 for a new one and salvage yards don't have them.

Could it be bad dummy plug O-rings, or the STC fitting (in an 04)? Or just a bad HPOP?

The reason I started doing all this in the first place was because it was missing at idle, hot or cold and missing from 45-60MPH in OD, hot or cold. Figured I would tear it down, do the EGR and just learn about the truck in the process.

Sorry for the long post, mine always are. Here is a video of the problem, maybe it will help.

VID 20121017 123010 - YouTube


Update:

Well, buddy came out with his scanner. The codes he pulled that I don't find normal are:
B1359 - Ignition run/accessory circuit failure
B1360 - Ignition switch circuit open
P0611 - Control module incorrectly configured (Status 60, no additional fault symptom available for this DTC)
C1284 - Oil Pressure Switch Failure
P0113 - IAT sensor circuit high input (this happened when we cranked it with the MAF sensor unplugged, then cleared it and it did not come back)

I returned the truck to factory tune with the SCT, nothing changed. Same problem.

Is my HPOP going bad? PCM bad? I am taking the Wire harness off tonight and going to attempt to fix it. I hope it didnt damage the PCM being bare on that spot.

I also tried it with the ICP sensor unplugged. Same scenario, 10-15 second crank, runs for a bit and slowly dies.

One thing of note, if i let it idle, I get about 25 seconds on engine on time. If I hold the RPMs to say 1500-2k I get about 4-6 seconds. It is like when I am cranking it, it is building up oil pressure real slow, and when it starts, it has a set amount of oil in the pump each time before it dies again. I am stumped... FICM voltage NEVER drops below 48 volts (I guess his scanner isn't able to read above 55v, I have the 58v FICM from SWAMPS) My batteries were a little weak in the video, from all the cranking I have been doing lately.

In the following video, the ICP actual doesn't seem to raise ANY until like 6+ seconds of cranking. And it rises SLOWLY. As soon as it gets close to 500psi she finally fires.

I don't think it makes a difference, but I DID put a very small screw in the factory fuel spring to increase pressure a tad, not as large as the ball bearing mod some guys where doing before the blue spring kit came out. And the threads don't interfere with the spring action. The head of the little screw just puts a bit more pressure on the spring.

Here is another video I took of some live PIDs I monitored while cranking that I thought might be of some help. Sorry for the sometimes shaky camera, using my cell phone . Also, turn down the volume, my digital volt readout was on, and made an obnoxious noise for the low battery alarm.

VID_20121017_175555.mp4 - YouTube

So much for taking off the Engine loom.. Much like the rest of the 6.0, that thing is impossible to get all off. I am on my last nerve with this truck, and its dry umping that nerve..

Also took turbo apart and cleaned/ reconditioned the VGT parts according to the Teck article on DTS.

I am thinking I have a High pressure oil leak, and that is why its hazing out the dipstick tube, but I just don't know enough about these engines to be sure if that's the problem at all, or if it is, where to start.. Or is it electrical. Bad PCM? I don't understand why it takes 6-8 seconds of cranking to begin building ICP pressure.

Once it fires, it appears to hold ICP pretty stable, then it just slowly dies, and as soon as it does ICP starts falling quickly. Is that normal?

I tried adding pics here, but it said "Upload Failed". Maybe my post count isnt high enough. Also I don't know how to add Youtube videos properly on here . Just showed up as a link.

I am to the point now, that I just wanna get it fixed, and trade it in on a good in line 6 Mega cab and be happy again... This thing is a death trap.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

No one?

I just came back in from fixing the bad spots in the wiring harness. Still no dice. Same problem. I have searched and searched, cant find anyone on any forums that have had this issue. The hard start, with blowby in the dipstick, followed by it dying. And in order to start it back up, crank again for 15 seconds... Come monday, it will have been sitting in my yard for 3 weeks. it is keeping me from making any money, and I dont have any more money to spend on it... I am totally lost.

 

Well my guess is the wire harness is chaffed and causing issues with the oil pressure sensor and causing it to die.

Give us some values of your ICP actual, ICP desired and IPR duty cycle. Give us some numbers to go off of.

The FICM wont fire the injectors until ICP actual is at 525psi. It needs at least that to run. You may want to pull the IPR valve and inspect it too.

You ran it out of oil pretty good, you may just need to bleed the air out, but I'm surprised it keeps dying on you. If the HPOP reservoir is emptied, it takes a long time to get it going. I'm thinking you might just have air in the system still. Ford says 3k rpms for 3 minutes solid to bleed it out. That or just drive the **** out of it.

The blowby is somewhat normal on these, especially on a cold motor like that.

You will also want to fully charge those batteries. These trucks do some really funny things on weak/dying batteries.

P0611 is a FICM issue... charge your batteries full and test that. You can find the test procedure at the top of the page in the 6.0 section

Report back here with battery voltages (individual voltages, take them off the truck and load test), FICM voltages (all three settings), and ICP/IPR values. Monitor the values at idle and giving it some RPM.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply, your input is appreciated!

I fixed the wiring harness last night. Same issue. Also tried starting it without the ICP plugged in, same thing.

I also pulled the drivers side valve cover off, checked stand pipes and dummy plugs, and checked the O-ring on the top of the injectors where the Oil rail sits. All look new.

I changed the Oil in this thing before I started it with the oil leak, and replaced the oil that leaked. Upon pulling the dipstick tube to double check the level, I found some debris stuck on the level indicator.. Wiped it clean, re dipped and pulled out more debris. Did this probably 10-15 times, never stopped getting debris.. Its all new oil, so where would it be coming from?

Also, the code for the oil pressure switch failure, is that for the low pressure lube system, and is it possibly related?

I didnt have any luck getting a fitting for the ICP air test. Couldn't find anything to use at Lowes, and Orielleys wasn't able to cross reference the OTC part number.

In the second video I posted, you can see the live data of ICP desired, ICP actual, FICM voltage and IPR%, KOEO, Cranking, and idle.

I haven't manually tested the FICM, just went off what the scanner shows. Which was good.

I am VERY relieved you say that blowby is normal. I was pissing myself when I saw it .

If I could get it to run even 2 seconds at 3k RPM then I would. The higher RPM I go, the shorter it lasts. Gonna put the valve cover back on, and pull the turbo and check the IPR. Going to have to order that air test fitting online..

I will also check the FICM manually KOEO, Cranking, and running.

I have to ride in to work this afternoon with a co-worker, and wont be back home til tomorrow night. But when I have time to perform more tests/ check these things, I will definitely report back. I have lots of photos I can add as well to help future folks.

Anyone have the torque specs for the oil rail and valve cover?

Thank you sir!

 

I'll have to watch these videos later, can't see them now at work, internet is slow around here on fridays for some reason...

Might want to check that you're getting fuel too, just for fun. Pull the fuel filter up on the motor, and turn the key and see if the bowl is filling with fuel.

 

Haha funny you should say that I got sprayed pretty good last night checking the fuel cap with key on. And no problem. Just check it out in your free time. The video was a tad shaky once or twice but for the most part its easy to see.