I have a problem with my 2007 6.0.. I was having the notourious hot start problem. Thinking it was the STC fitting, my mechanic tore into it. When he got in there the STC fitting had already been replaced. We put in a new HPOP, and did all the rebuilds on the seals. I stilllll have the problem. (dumby plugs not replaced because I would only get low oil psi every once in a while.. It can't be that then can it? 9/10 times I get 580 psi the other one I'd get 365) Before we did all this, as soon as the oil needle would go up, it'd fire. Now, even when the needle goes up, nothing. (Sometimes) I had my batteries tested and they are 65% charge and 80% charge but tested 'good'. I'm running 15-40 delo oil in it. It does have fram filters though. When it does start normal, it takes 3-4 seconds warm and 5-8 seconds cold. I'm stumped. We were getting consistant oil pressures (580) before we did all the work on it. Except for the 1 out of 10 times it had the problem, we'd get 350 psi. Current temp is 80-100. Oil changed 1,500 miles ago, as well as the fuel filters. When it does finally turn over after minutes of cranking (30 second tries) it takes 4-5 seconds when the motor starts to turn over to turn on. When I am cranking it warm I get 125 cranking rpms. It runs perfectly normal. Before I replaced the HPOP though it woulnd't blow smoke for nothing. Now, it will a litttle bit but enough I can see out my mirror and that's only when floored. 149,000 miles... Turbo also seems to whistle more now. I'm stuck. What do I do next.. To FIX it? I'm guessing it HAS to be the dumby plugs... and I do not know why my mechanic didn't do this. He said if it was this it would always have a hot start issue. Is he right?

 

It doesn't make sense to do all that work and not rpace the dummy plugs, do them then see if you still have the problems. Also double check the screenon the IPR valve, it is very common for the screen to get glogged after a new HPOP is installed, it happens for some reason.

 

Could be your branch tubes if the seals leak you'll have the same prob as the stc

 

The branch tube itself holds oil perfect. I talked to someone from a youtube video on the phone. He said my hard shift when cold is a dead giveaway that it is the dumby plugs. Also the slight bit of smoke that it produces.. $200 in parts.. If I can figure out how to do it myself zero in labor. If not.. 450.. for 5.4 hours. Should have gotten a Cummins.

 

I sure as hell wouldn't pay someone that much just to do dummy plugs, it's not like they're down in the lifter valley and you have to remove everything. They're right under the valve covers on the front of the head. About a 4 beer job.

 

you just need a 10mm allen socket to remove the old one and a 12mm allen socket to install the new one. once the valve cover is off it takes about 2 minutes to change the plug out.

 

Once I undo those allen sockets then what? The plug pops out slides out or how does that work? Also I am going to do the standpipes. 10mm for that too? Does it come out the same way as the dummy plug? I've already spent 2,200 into this, I'm not going to spend another 500 in labor for a rather simple job. On the drivers side what needs to come off the valve cover? there looks to be a housing to something.

 

the plugs just pull out, if you are doing the standpipes the you will have to remove the oil rails, not too hard either they are held on by 8? small torx bolts. remove the air cleaner assembly, remove the FICM wich sits on top of the valve cover, it has 3 connectors on bottom side, you pinch them near the top on both sides of connector. the drivers side is alot easier then the pass side. When you are removing the valve cover bolts loosen all of them a couple turns the start backing them all the way out, this way the bolts stay in the gasket and make reassembly alot easier.

 

The dummyplug and stand pipe kit is like $102 from Tousley. Just saying.

I don't know why everyone thinks cummins don't need maintenance!? I don't get it. You really think owning a cummins means you'll never have to fix anything again?

 

How about the passenger side? What's the process of getting that valve cover off? Looks like there's crud in the way of some of the bolts. Also, when you take the oil rails out, the standpipe just sits there, or how does that work?