Yeah the factory pumps use a plastic impeller and they chip away and break. I don't think it's a function of the coolant itself, but yes they can break away. Bulletproof diesel makes a billet one now... I'm probably throwing one in mine when I tear it down. That is definitely another option, and could be the cause.

 

Yeah, I saw that Bulletproof one. They want a pretty penny for that thing.

 

The stocker isn't cheap either. Lists for $195... Tousley has them for $160... so $220 for the BPD one isn't that bad....

 

$220 is not bad but the price I see on their site is $315.

 

You're right... they used to have 2 versions, one that was basically a stock pump with a billet impeller on it, and then they came out with what you see there which is a full billet unit, billet housing and everything. Must be they did away with the earlier versions... yikes.

Check ebay, I've seen some "stock replacement" water pumps that had metal blades/impellers on them. I believe Alliant even made one.

 

I certainly appreciate all the advice and insight.

You mentioned that I should go with a better tune. I am scared to give her too much because of the head bolts. That's why I went with the Flashpaq (and because my buddy practically gave it to me). What do you recommend without doing the head bolt upgrade?

 

SCT with custom tunes. The flashpaq is a piece of crap (don't take this the wrong way). It's not really a "tuner" by any sense of the meaning. It just tricks the PCM into sending more fuel and more injection pressure to the engine. I would recommend an SCT with a good street tune. It should still be headbolt safe (a lot safer than the flashpaq, I bet the timing is absurd on that thing) and way safer for your transmission. You could make more power and run safer with custom tunes.

The highly recommended tuners are:

Eric @ Innovative Diesel
Matt @ Gearhead
Vivian @ Quicktricks Auto
Doug @ GoGo

there are probably others I'm forgetting. Eric has been the best for me so far both in tuning and customer service.

 

Being that I am on TTY bolts at about 101K, and since you have already addressed the oil and EGR coolers, a 4 inch straight exhaust (if you don't already have it), and an SCT are about all I see you missing. Personally, I like Matt's SRL tune.

When driving, stay off the loud pedal below 190* ECT. When parking spool down to 400* EGT to prevent oil coking in the turbo. I see gauges and/or a monitor in your future.

I have mud raced, truck pulled (hauled a friend's truck to the pulls, and competed) and went down the quarter mile in my truck, and that was just the summer of 2012! Watch your gauges and it should be fine.

 

Okay, I'm stuck. It's still overheating. I have replaced the oil cooler, fan clutch, water pump, and thermostat. I cleaned the radiator and checked the flow. I am not losing coolant. Could the head gasket possibly be blown without losing coolant? My EOT is running about 22 degrees higher than my ECT. Could the oil cooler have clogged up in 2000 miles? What is going on? HELP!

 

You say it's running 22* higher, but what are the actual temps we're talking here? I wouldn't think it would be a clogged oil cooler, usually that causes absurd coolant temps, not oil temps.

It's possible the headgasket is blown, but you'd be doing something... like pushing coolant out of the overflow bottle. Any white residue around that? The fan is coming on right? You cleaned the radiator.... on the inside or outside?