I've got an '05 excursion 6.0, 103k on it and it's becoming a major headache. I'm stumped.

Here's the rundown:
When we bought it, it ran fine for a few days then stalled & died as we were braking & turning; towed home.
* replaced alternator (CS screen reading low battery)
* stalled again on next test drive, tow home.
* replaced BPS
* torque converter clutch reading was really weird (MAC scanner)
* took to local shop & they tested & replaced ICP, IPR, resealed branch tubes, replaced 2 injectors that were leaking.
* stalled again (low oil pressure) & had it brought home (CS screen had kicked the bucket by this time).
* replaced STC - got tested at local shop & tested good!
* wife drove it out and it started the stuttering all over again, surging & losing power etc @ 65 mph. She limped it home.
* I drove it again and thought it felt like it was surging in all gears, stuttering etc. It stalled & we boosted it for about 15 mins, and it struggled to life. Made it home
* BOUGHT AE!!
* Found a bunch of electrical codes and got to work on them - most of them are gone now except for P0500 & U2016, also the 2WD solenoid failure code (can't remember the ###).
* took it for another test drive while monitoring it and it stalled again, along with the surging & lurching. Here's some readings that came up:
engine oil temp - 191
coolant temp - 193
FICM stayed steady.
*tried to restart & had an ICP reading 350-380 psi and it wouldn't start.
* wife came out to boost it and we let it sit for about 15 mins (temp was 185 by then) and it struggled to life again.

according to AE my vehicle speed was 0.2 mph and my speedometer was reading 50mph.
* at idle TC slippage was Desired=1020rpm, Actual=20rpm

Could a bad PCM harness cause all this mess???

And I had the batteries tested, came back fine.

 

Sounds like you have a high pressure oil leak to me.

I'd be interested to know exactly what the shop fixed, cause it sounds like they didn't fix anything.

05+ are notorious for the snap to connect fittings, which you just did. Another are that has been udpated is the stand pipes and dummy plugs. Anytime someone does one, I recommend they do both the pipes, the plugs and the STC fitting all at once.

Monitor ICP actual, ICP desired, and IPR duty cycle for us.

It wouldn't hurt to pull the IPR and inspect it.

You can find lots of info about how stuff works and where they're located on your engine here in the coffee table books, just find your right year and download:

DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books

Get that taken care of first. I will look into the electrical codes now.

 

The p0500 is normally the vss (vehicle speed sensor) in the rear diff. Check it with an ohm meter. It should be 800 to 1800 ohm. You can usually pull it out and clean it too, it's on the top of the diff. This explains your speedo issue.

U2016 I'm finding a few different things, but you wouldn't happen to have an overhead trip/computer deal that's not working right would you? A member here just did a write up on how to fix this yourself on the cheap.

 

yeah, the OTC is dead...where would I find that write up?? (sorry, new here!)

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Thanks Mdud707 I will check the speed sensor on the diff. I do have a faulty overhead trip computer. I'll look for the post regarding the repair and try that.

In regards to you other questions about the oil leaks; the shop replaced two leaking injectors, replaced the seals on the branch tubes and dummy plugs(i'm not exactly sure if they were all done or not I hope to find out today). The ICP sensor was repalced ans well as the IPR. I did monitor ICP actual and Desired. They were typically within 10 - 50 psi of each other while driving. At idle ICP was around 580 psi at operating temps.

Thanks for you help.

 

You might want to check your low pressure oil side too, if the low pressure pump isn't feeding enough oil to the high pressure resivoir then it will act just like a high pressure oil leak too. What kind of oil filter do you have, is it a motorcraft or Fram filter? Don't use one that includes it's own cap like the Napa ones as they have been known to not hold a plunger down properly and not build pressure properly. It would be good to get a mechanical guage on the low pressure oil to see what it is, goes up to 75psi

 

So what is ICP currently? Your first post said 380, this says 580? I'm assuming it's 580?

The dummy plugs and stand pipes have a new revised design, they use a completely different seal. This sounds just like a high pressure oil leak issue, especially since it doesn't start hot.

The dummy plugs and stand pipes are like $120...

Here's the write up on the OTC. https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-p...puter-otc.html

 

I had to laugh, when I was searching for some of these trouble codes and stuff, I found this very thread you started over on the ORG and you had basically no useful info. Very happy to see you can get your answers quickly here instead! Hope you stick around after.

 

Sorry, to clear that up - once I had replaced the STC (and could actually monitor it properly) it had a consistent reading of 580 at idle, once it was warmed up a bit (5-10mins of idling). The other night when I had gotten down to only 3 codes left and took it for a test drive it and it stalled - when I tried to restart it right after it stalled, the reading was 380. Once my wife came out and we boosted it with the van, the reading (even before I had the key in) was over 4000psi, but once it chugged to life it was once again around 580. I have no idea why the reading was so high???!

As a side note, I've also noticed that once, after idling for a bit, I revved it up and as soon as I let off it dropped for a split second, literally, to about 490, then right back up to 580. It almost seems like the minute I let off the gas, it can't maintain the pressure - but that's not always the case b/c even shifting into N doesn't prevent a stall all the time.

Yeah, it's nice to get some good responses!! Thanks for your help so far, I appreciate it!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

back to some electrical questions....

Are the ABS light, VSS, OTC, Brake Pedal switch, (not working) AC all on the same harness? If these are all pulling codes/problematic, could it be this particular harness?

And is it possible that if the VSS is sending wrong communication (due to short/faulty wiring) to the PCM, the PCM could be telling the IPR to dump the oil back to tank, causing 'low hpo' symptoms?

 

So I've replaced the hpop & all the injectors. Also replaced the VSS and that took care of that code. Found an open in the 4x4 solenoid and replaced that - now there's 'no communication with the antilock brake module or instruement cluster' - AE. Also drained the tranny fluid and put in new w/ a new filter as well.

There's also some new codes:

P2199 - IAP 1/2 correlation
P2614 - CMP output circuit open
P2617 - CKP output circuit open

B1318 - Batt voltage low
B1359 - Ignition run/acc circuit failure

We've had the batteries load tested and they came back fine, but they sure don't seem to be able to hold a charge for long - if the truck sits for a few days w/o starting, they're dead. I've checked and triple checked the grounds....

After the injectors were done and I took it for a drive, it stalled. Again. Exactly the same as before. I got it restarted after a bit and managed to get it home, but this thing is really driving me crazy! I'm learning as I go here, so bear with me....ANY HELP would be appreciated.

And thanks to the input I've received so far, it's great

 

Holy cow man. This truck sounds like an electrical nightmare, any idea what the heck happened to it before you got it?

There has to be some faulty wiring harness' on this thing.

The P2199 should be an easy fix. There is two intake air temp sensors, and one of them is faulty, throwing the code. Maybe this will point to a defective harness even??? Let the truck sit overnight, go out and turn the key to the on position (truck off). Monitor the sensors with AE, they should be really close to ambient temperature, if one is way off, you found which one is bad.

The P2614 and the P2617... both of these codes are typically thrown when the truck is cranked a ton and not started, but they're thrown falsely. I've seen these codes both before and even seen random start/run issues with these trucks in rare cases where the crank sensor tone ring is cracked. So it's still attached to the crank but keeps missing once in a while and will shut down FICM SYNC.

The PCM is obviously seeing weak batteries, but it sounds like the truck IS actually draining your batteries as you go here? These trucks run TERRIBLE with weak batteries, so honestly the stalling is almost not suprising. If you are able to drive it at all, I would keep a watchful on on FICM SYNC as you're driving.

What is ICP actual and ICP desired as you're driving and when it's dying? Capturing this data as it's dying out on you may be crucial to finding what is wrong here. Is it smoking a bunch as this is happening? Does the truck have to sit a while and cool off a bit before it starts again? I still can't help but wonder if there is a high pressure oil leak somewhere yet, albeit a very small one.

Here's a really good read that I think would benefit you some: http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...FICM_Guide.pdf It's basically the FICM operations and how it fires injectors and how it gets info to fire injectors. I think if you read through this and get a good understanding of what the sensors are doing it will at least help in having a better idea of where to look when it starts acting up and what symptoms lead to others etc. Read through it and let me know what you think. I've read it a dozen times and I feel like I learn something new every time I read it again.
This is a good brain teaser for sure...