I bought my 2003 6.0 2 1/2 years ago. Since that time I have replaced camshaft position sensor, ICP, IPR, HPOP and 2 injectors (Not sure what #'s, 2 others were replaced prior to my purchase.) I have also deleted the EGR and cooler.

It came with an Edge Tuner which I used for about 2 years.

3 months ago the truck started randomly shutting off and not wanting to restart. After cranking and letting it rest multiple times it would restart. Finally it just quit. I replaced the ICP and pigtail (which was filled with oil). That did not fix the problem. I also disconnected the Tuner and that did not help. I had it towed to the Ford Dealer. They said the computer was blank. They re-flashed it and it ran fine for a while. They thought the tuner erased the computer. I have not hooked the tuner up since.

Then 2 weeks later while driving the truck I was going up some small hills and I kept losing power. Even going down the hills I could not gain much speed. Finally it just stalled. I had it towed to the dealer and they found metal in the IPR screen and replaced that and the HPOP.

It is now running but not well. A friend who is a mechanic used his scanner and found no codes (except egr codes).
My current symptoms are as follows:
Cold starts (78 degrees outside) it starts but has no power till it has warmed up.
If I start and run it immediately it will buck and jerk and accelerate SLOWLY and not shift well until it is warm. After it is warm it runs fine.
Sitting at stop lights, sometimes it will lurch and the idle fluctuates.
When pulling my 7600# camper it feels like I am using my old 5.4 gas engine.
Even pulling a 3000# trailer is a chore.
Even when warm it does not accelerate very quickly.

I do not know if I have given enough info or if I have just created more confusion. Any advice is GREATLY appreciated.

While I am not a mechanic I am willing to get under the hood and do whatever it takes. (I deleted the EGR & cooler, replaced the water pump and ICP myself)

Thanks,

Matthew

 

This is how every question being asked should be, you gave perfect info.

Start with taking your batteries off of the truck and having them load tested. If one is bad, replace BOTH.

THEN, test the FICM on the truck. You can find the FICM test procedure at the top of the page.

Batteries and the FICM account for probably 90% of trucks that have your symptoms.

I'm assuming once it warms up most of these issues go away right?

When you're towing the camper and it feels like a turd, is it smoking at all?

 

I will get the batteries checked. I tested the FICM when I started having problems several months ago and it tested great. I will test it again. No, I do not get any smoke when it acts up. Thanks for the reply and I will post the results of my further tests in a few days.

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I tested the batteries with my own multimeter tonight. I did not disconnect them first, however. They tested at 12.64-12.66. There is a lot of corrosion on the terminals (I have been battling this for years) and the battery says it was shipped in Feb of '08. I think I will just go and get two new batteries. Any suggestions on what to look for in a new battery??

 

The one with the highest CCA (cold cranking amps). Almost all of the batteries you'll see are made in the same place. There's something like 3 battery manufacturers in all of the states.

I got some 880CCA batteries from Napa. I know Wal-Mart had the cheapest around, but I despise Wal-Mart. I will gladly pay more somewhere else. Though, if you ever have an issue there's a good chance of finding a 24 hr wal-mart somewhere too to get them replaced in the middle of the night.