I just now talked to a buddy of mine and he was having same issue, he did a air test and thought it was an injector Oring so he replaced them all, didn't help. Did the air test again and it wound up being the O ring on the BOTTOM OF OIL RAIL, ON THE SWIVEL PIECE THAT PLUGS INTO INJECTORS, First time I ever heard of them going Bad, He found a guy that made a special tool to remove it and supplied the seals, might be worth to find a used set to put on instead. He had very high oil temps when his cooler clogged and hurt alot of the seals.

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I know they don't like these links but this is a special tool.
Ford 6.0L Oil Rail Repair Kit, Tool and O rings, High Pressure Oil Leak Fix | eBay

 

Thanks again bobfbigman, I went to the link but they don't deliver to Canada is there any chance that this could be the ficm even though it drives so nice while it's running.

My mechanic thinks it electrical and is there a chance that HPOP is just bad even after updating it?

I was thinking if it was any of these it wouldn't even start when it was cold? What do I know anyway.

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what temp range should my coolent temp and oil temp be at.

 

It might not hurt to have your mechanic monitor FICM SYNC when this problem occurs. That would be about the only thing that would do this. It should be a "yes" or "no" situation. As long as it has SYNC (meaning it's getting a reading from the crank position sensor) it will let the FICM run.

When he's cranking it when it's warm and it's not starting, is there any smoke coming out of the exhaust at all?

 

oh shoot i forgot he got a p2285 code for a while too. could a icp sensor cause a hot start problem too.

 

Sure could. Next time it does it, have him just unplug the ICP sensor. If it starts up and runs fine it's the sensor. If there is no change, it's probably still a high pressure oil leak. The sensor is in the passenger side valve cover, runs right through the center of the cover.

 

not sure about the smoke, but I will ask him now.

If the FICM doesn't have sync what would be the remedy for this.

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what is the best shop manual to get for these trucks

 

Jut curious here, you are in Canada so it might give us some imput at differences in these trucks. Do you have a one piece intake elbow or a 2 piece elbow with the butterfly valve underneath it? We ran into a guy wth a 05 truck that had the butterfly valve and it was sticking closed, these trucks will not run without air, right Mike,
I believe that tool is made from a piece of 1 1/8inch hex stock, the main thing is it needs the hole in middle to go over the nipple. I was thinking o going to home depot or someplace like that and going to plumbing department, they have hex tools for removing faucets, they are double sided and hollow, would need to measure outside to find one that would fit. I believe the dealer will have the Orings.

 

Sorry man I bought this truck in Boston and it was originally from Idaho. Dang! the one time I could contribute something too, figures...

 

[QUOTE=bobfbigman;929541]Jut curious here, you are in Canada so it might give us some imput at differences in these trucks. Do you have a one piece intake elbow or a 2 piece elbow with the butterfly valve underneath it? We ran into a guy wth a 05 truck that had the butterfly valve and it was sticking closed, these trucks will not run without air, right Mike,
I believe that tool is made from a piece of 1 1/8inch hex stock, the main thing is it needs the hole in middle to go over the nipple. I was thinking o going to home depot or someplace like that and going to plumbing department, they have hex tools for removing faucets, they are double sided and hollow, would need to measure outside to find one that would fit. I believe the dealer will have the Orings

I still don't have my truck back but I'm pretty sure it is a single piece intake elbow, but i'm going by tomorrow and will check and let you know.

 

If it was bought in the US then it should be a 1 piece unit.