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94 12valve going into a 94 f250

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  #51  
Old 03-08-2012 | 12:52 PM
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With the mods I am doing should I get some better head bolts or will the factory ones hold up?
 
  #52  
Old 03-08-2012 | 02:09 PM
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The factory ones should be fine, I've heard of overtorqued factory bolts handling really high amounts of boost and power. I just figured the upgraded bolts were a nice $130 insurance policy over stock, without shelling out for studs.
 
  #53  
Old 03-08-2012 | 02:17 PM
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Where did you get your head bolts at?
 
  #54  
Old 03-08-2012 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by EasternAggie
The factory ones should be fine, I've heard of overtorqued factory bolts handling really high amounts of boost and power. I just figured the upgraded bolts were a nice $130 insurance policy over stock, without shelling out for studs.
ya i wouldn't get them i build a set of brackets and am using the 1st gen cummins mounts had one fail but there lifetime warranted threw autozone that was 2 years ago haven't had an issue since

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by Oklahoma diesel
Where did you get your head bolts at?
if you have the coin get studs the factory bolts loose tensil strength being over torqued time after time the studs are a good insurance policy for them money
 

Last edited by 94cummins12v; 03-08-2012 at 02:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #55  
Old 03-09-2012 | 08:04 PM
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How much are some studs, is there any extra machine work if I use studs instead of bolts?
 
  #56  
Old 03-10-2012 | 10:04 AM
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a set of studs average $400 no machine work they say you have to mill the top of your rockertowers but ive installed a dozen sets of studs on different truck and havent had to do it once i ground the inside of the valve covers so they would clear the stud. also they recomend bottom tapping the block i also have never had to i installed a set of studs for a guy that is running a 1000hp 12v with tripple turbos here in spokane hes running 70psi of boost with no issues
 
  #57  
Old 03-10-2012 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 94cummins12v
a set of studs average $400 no machine work they say you have to mill the top of your rockertowers but ive installed a dozen sets of studs on different truck and havent had to do it once i ground the inside of the valve covers so they would clear the stud. also they recomend bottom tapping the block i also have never had to i installed a set of studs for a guy that is running a 1000hp 12v with tripple turbos here in spokane hes running 70psi of boost with no issues
ok the reason you bottom tap the block so you get plenty of stud penetration in the block to get a good bite, the rocker stands are milled down to get plenty of thread in the nut so you get proper clamping and don't pull the threads our of the nut. 70psi of boost is not a whole lot.
 
  #58  
Old 03-10-2012 | 03:07 PM
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I'm not planning on making a giant sleeper or anything just a pull truck with about 400 hp. And not running more than 35 psi on the boost?
 
  #59  
Old 03-10-2012 | 03:38 PM
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400hp is usually over 35psi especially on a stock charger.
 
  #60  
Old 03-10-2012 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 01quadcab
ok the reason you bottom tap the block so you get plenty of stud penetration in the block to get a good bite, the rocker stands are milled down to get plenty of thread in the nut so you get proper clamping and don't pull the threads our of the nut. 70psi of boost is not a whole lot.
yes i know what the propose of doing it is for as for milling the rockers its not needed i have 1/16" protruding out of each nut on top of the rocers so it wouldnt benifit anymore as for bottom tapping yes it doese give it more bite but bottom tapping the block doesnt give you more than 1/32"-1/16" of extra thread im just saying i have put studs in a variatey of hp truck and have yet to see a failure
 


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