I'll give that a shot in the morning! I think your right!

Keep us posted. Since you have a fuel pressure guage you might just plug the existing pump back in and see if things improve. Right now your cummins pump is trying to drag fuel thru a pump that's not pumping (read: "big-assed restriction"). So long as the pressure stays below the VE's leak threshold, and above the starvepoint, you're going to be OK

I guarantee if you ask around, someone in florida has a set of timing tools to set the timing. it only takes about an hour in they take their time so someone shouldnt charge you much to set the timing on it.

Hey man first off GREAT JOB!!! Second, if you remove the factory in tank fuel pump have you thought of using a FASS System? Then you'll never have fuel issues....:tu:

Got a squeeking pully driving me nuts but here is the vid!!
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Very nice there is a ton of room height wise (I know OBS Fords are tight that way).There was much talk about the clutch not holding the power but how about the frame desighned for 400 lbs of TQ now having over 800.Especialy with the angles having that much lift.Thats not a concern of yours?

I think the frame will be ok it's just as thick as the dodge frame suprisingly
As far as the clutch impressed so far just a bit grippy

Great Job man. that is such a clean install. you are very tallented for sure.

That thing looks factory (HINT HINT NISSAN) You did an excellent job:tu::c: If you need someone to put it through its paces and find out what it will do, just let me know:rocking: Since I live in the mountains I can really test it for you:w2:

i live just north of Tallahassee FL and have the tools to do the timing. if you want to try to meet up sometime shoot me a PM

the fuel pressure is too low. the P-7100 pump likes 30-45PSI especially with larger injectors. get an Airdog AD150 and it comes with 1/2" lines and you won't look back.

Well I finally got the bal#s to shower down on it the other day and needless to say it has a LOT more power than the Titan motor! I was in in third gear when I hit it and ended up with a sheared 1410 u joint, twisted D-shaft and 2 busted springs on the driver side! I since replaced the springs, added two for a total of 5. Made my 2" x .250 wall DOM Traction Bars with 1 1/4" Creeper joints, Thicker Dshaft with Yukon 4340 Joints and a set of goodyear bags. Since then no problems exept the tranny sounds like its going to come apart. The frame is doing great with the new found power. I am still needing to regear from the 3.73 to 4.56 and then a dyno!

I might just take you up on the offer for timing! I have the fuel pressure idling between 12-15 PSI but when you go through the gears it pegs out the 35psi. guage. It still pops a little when I get on it hard, I really think it's the timing.

that still may be a little low at idle, mine will have 40-45psi once i get my junk back together.

if it is popping at a higher RPM it very well may be timing. did you install the governor springs yet? 3KGSK will wake up a stock truck and 4KGSK helps with added fueling mods as it allows fueling over the entire usable rpm band even if you only turn 3200 it will fuel until you let off at 3200. the 3K fuels until around 2700 and the 4K will fuel to about 3600 or so depending on the spring preload. remember that anything over 3200 or so WILL require atleast 60# valve springs, and with timing, injectors and a nice new turbo i'd look at the bare min. studs but o-ring the head to have a little bit of insurance.....

I have the 3K gov springs, New BW S300 Turbo, 370 Non-Marine injectors, 4" downpipe to a 5" exhaust. And I pin timmed it, but I am 99% sure it slipped a little or I didn't get it right on the money!

depending on the motor you are in the 12-14* range IF the gears were put on in the correct position. using a dial indicator is the only way to know exactly where the timing is.

I had to replace the front timing cover so I put the gears back, I did make sure to line the o in between the oo on the crank and camshaft. As for the pump, it was close! I'll get up with you when I get back in town in a few weeks. I found a guage set online for $149 through pure diesel power. It's not snap-on but looks to be good quality.

IIRC someone on here purchased that kit and the gauge was measuring in inches. all the instructions and charts for setting timing uses millimeters..... just saying.... post up in the price quote forum here and see what some of the sponsors here can do for you with the timing kit.

I'm glad you told me that! I didn't realize it was measuring in inches. With everything elso going on while timing I really dont need to be figuring out a conversion factor as well!

Thanks for the link. That sounds just like the problem I am having with mine!

Ive been thinking about the same conversion for a while, im glad somebody finally did it! What did you do as far as motor mounts?

The factory mounts were removed and the inside of the frame was plated with 1/4" x 4" flat bar. The motor mouts were made with the same 4" and I used the rubber mounts that were on the cummins already. As for the transmission I cut the factory transmission mount on each end and attached the factory ends to a piece of 2"x2" 1/4" wall square tubing. It is removable incase the tranny needs to come out. Which it will be coming out to install a new dual disk clutch kit!

awesome! does it sit down quite a bit between the frame rails? it looks like it sits quite a bit lower than the vk56 and i know the cummins is by far a taller motor than the stock motor.

The truck has a 3" body lift so It can fit under the wiper screen. Also 99% sure your not going to fit that motor in the Titan without doing a solid axle swap cause' the frame crossmember on the lower a arms will hit the oil pan. Even if that clears I wouldn't trust the lower a-arms and unit hubs to hold up very long to the added weight. There is about 600LBS of extra weight just in the motor vs the Titan all aluminum VK56.

ya i didnt plan on running the stock ifs. i was planning on a dana 60 like yours with a dana 80 single wheel conversion.

I ran the ford axles for two reasons, I wanted the D60 High Pinion in the front and I love unit hubs, everyone else hates them but they are easy to change! I didn't go with the Dodge axles because I dont like the CAD axles and I wanted manual locking hubs. With 12" of lift it's good to not have the front d-shaft spinning all the time!

thats good thinking, im not going to have that much lift. i guess the 3" body lift for sure so i can fit the motor but i would prob only go 2 more inches in the front and thats about it. i plan on hauling a gooseneck so i cant go very high. how long did this whole project take you?

About three months.

wow! did you work on it full time?

No, not full time. But it is a pain to do this swap Nissan has some Fu^% Up electronics.

in terms of gauges and stuff? cuz a 12v doesnt require much wiring. i was thinking possibly a 24v. what are your thoughts on that? would it be too much of a pain in the a$$?

I don't have the patients for the 24V, but it would be nice! For the gauges I just fitted the Dodge cluster in my dash and used the dodge haness and PCM. I fought with the Nissan cluster for two months, the nissan harness sucks too. Now I have all my gauges working.

Ok guys here are a few pics of the truck now. I fitted the Dodge Cluster in the dash, and took a few exterior pics.
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Nice!!!!

Nice!! was it pretty much just cutting and splicing wires or was it more complicated than that?

Wiring isn't bad at all, I used the dodge PCM, Engine wiring harness, and part of the dash harness to get the cluster working. Only spicing was the starter, A/C, heat valve, and a couple odds and ends.

I cant see me wasting my time with a foreign truck like that, personally I wish they would have all never been built :argh:, although yours did turn out very bad ass

I've never seen a TITAN like yours:tu::tu::yeah:

Now I feel like a slacker doin the ford conversion like most guys, very nice job. I like the gauge setup, looks like it's always been there. I wouldn't let the clutch worry you, I drive a 1850 ftLB pete and the clutch discs look just like yours, except there's two of them. The first time I changed a clutch on a big truck I could't believe they hold up, and I've had them last over 800k!

that is bad! i work for nissan's heavy equipment devision and get an awesome deal on new trucks, makes me think :humm:

I just put the Valair dual disk in and holy crap that thing is SWEET!!