Well this may be a bit early but I've been been talking to fte and redveloce. And it's time I did a true performance build.
I will be starting with a 2005 kubota v2203 di reefer engine I will be picking up the engine this weekend. I intend to have this in a truck by may-June I would like to see 150 hp and 350tq rw
Any questions or comments please post

 

Stock hp/tq? What does it weigh?

I do like seeing swaps like this. A buddy had a Perkins in a F350 for a while.

 

I've got a bunch of questions, to many . but first. has anyone put the Kubota pump on a injector test bench to see what the stock pump is going to be capbable of delivering?
What all are you planning on doing to reach your goal.

 

Rangmar since you talk with FTE I am sure you have my thoughts as well. But I think before any real mods are done there should be some way to have piston oil squirters added to help keep from melting the pistons when the EGT gets a bit high. Other than that I have talked to a few Custom Piston companies and they do not have forgings small enough to make a true forged piston for our little kubotas. I stopped looking into parts after that. But I feel the stock rods should be fine if they are polished and shot penned as well as some good ARP Bolts added. I would also look to see if anyone makes a tool steel wrist pin that would cross over to what the Kubota has. As for the pistons I would probably contact a company and ask them what the best coatings would be for this application. Both for heat dissipation as well as wear preventives. I have as of yet to remove a crank shaft from a Kubota so I am not sure of the retaining bolt properties. And last but not least a good balance job of the rotating assembly.

As for the Head I would think just a good clean up of the ports and gasket matching would work well for the intake side and to back cut the intake valves as well as facing the corners. For the Exhaust a short directional tube system to direct the exhaust into the Turbo with the most speed without reducing volume.

Sorry it is late and this is all at the moment that comes to mind.

The only parts of this that you may have to farm out would be the coating of the pistons and the balance job as well as the resizing of the Rods when the new rod bolts are added. The other stuff you can do yourself. If you would like to know more please do not hesitate to ask.

Or if you wish you can forgo most of that stuff except for maybe a bit of port work and valves as well as the exhaust to the turbo and a 3" exhaust and see what you get on the Dyno if it does not BLOW .


dieselxj mentioned the Injection pump. From what FTE and Rangmar has stated they are only operating at about 75% of there full capacity. So the stock Injection pump may just be enough.

 

Stock hp and tq in the reefer is 35hp and 150 tq my ranger has 98 rwhp and 278 ft lbs with nothing more than turning up the fuel and adding a turbo.

As far as upgrades
Sam from Leonard's is sending me a set of injectors, I am going to have the guys ddp dynomight diesel performance rebuild and extrude hone them, they are less than a mile from my house.
I'm planning a single turbo first and when I reach the limits of that either compounds or twins,
I will be rebuilding this engine when I get it home. I'm purposely getting a high hour engine jus for that reason.
I'm pretty good friends with some of the guys at ddp I plan on going oversized with the pistons. (Maybe maybe not).
There's a guy around here who makes custom head gaskets. (Maybe a thicker one to lower compression so I can run more boost)
Depending on how it goes on my current truck I maybe ceramic coating the manifold
Also may plan on some funny gas. I'm not to sure how far ill be taking this. I'm completely open to suggestions.

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The engine ways appox 400 lbs.
also I've spoken to fte and we will try to figure out some oil squirters


I have. Several ideas its just hard to get the time to put them all down on here ill update tonight when I get some time

 

I am trying to find the math for how much fuel will be required for 150hp. on the theory and math side of things. but I was also running on the impression that the stock pump has not been turned up all the way. Then is there enough lift and duration to get all the fuel in there
jester id it snowing in SA yet?

 

No Snow just sleet and rain and wind.

Rangmar ask them if they can extrude hone the stock exhaust manifold. I like cast iron exhaust manifolds if done right for a turbo application as it helps to retain heat and also increases exhaust speed.

I did speak with Leonard (Sam) about the Bore. And they can only be over bored .020 as they are thin. Now if you can bore out the complete cylinder and have the room to do so and install a larger sleeve you might have a shot. But as far as I know ROSS does not make a Diesel Forged piston smaller than 3.980. http://www.rosspistons.com/products/...7&vehicle_id=0

 

how about .02cc per cyl per rev. that does not seem like enough that is for 150hp @2250 rpm.
can any one check my math is that even close?

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my engine half dressed full oil; NO turbo, ac comp, flywheel cover, or starter ; was #462

 

The 466 International has factory provision for piston oilers. "Piston cooling jets bolt into the main oil gallery of the block and spray oil into the bottom side of the piston for cooling of the head of the piston." Other big tractor engines use these also.
I am going to attempt to phrase the following so none of this information is found while doing an internet "search", so if it sounds vauge that is why. I know this works. In the "bash a car" competitions some of the builders are using the "little GM vee8" engines that are converted to "loobricant" cooling. The builders are adding "loobricant" lines inside the engine to spray the piston bottoms. They are using International jets. These engines are built loose. There is a "hard water"chest in the vehicle that is full of "hard water". The "loobricant" is pumped through a "loobricant" cooler in this cooler. Even after the "hard" has melted there is cooling. 212 deg is still cool for oil. The point is these jets work. Without them the pistons would be "holed". These engines don't start coming to life until they are blowing "vapor".
There are a couple of points here. After installing these jets an oil cooler may be considered. The International jets spray all the time since they are on the oil gallery. Drilling the rod will give a one shot per revolution squirt, not a spray. Drilling a rod has to weeken it.

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I help a bit with a big block John Deere pulling tractor. This is NOT one of the big power unlimited class motors. We are limited on turbo size and cubic inches. We are not a top contender, but about a 4th or 5th place tractor. We have a new turbo coming, a bigger pump coming, and working on dropping compression currently.
Even with our less than top performance we are bending piston pins.
We have upgraded head studs, but are lifting the head.
We need 60# of boost but can only get 50# currently.
Hopefully the new turbo and pump will help, $$$.
There is a better set of piston pins available, gotta have them, $$.
There are also better head studs available, $$.
The good news is all the parts are still in one piece(until we took it apart), it still drove onto the trailer, and there wasn't an oil puddle under it.
The moral of the story is it takes $$$ to turn up a diesel.
Then more $$$to fix the weak links.

On the BIG class diesels the rod bearings are beat so hard they last a VERY short time. Most guys don't bother to open the motor to change them. A very large volume oil pump is needed. There is insane boost on these engines.

Diesel to alcohol swapped tractors are gentle on rod bearings. Boost level on these is only 110 to 150 psi. A guy here got his 3208 cat on alcohol up in hp (2500 to 3000) before he found the weak link (pistons). He was using stock but modded internal Cat parts. REMEMBER, only 8 seconds for a pull. After 1 pull the oil looked like a milk shake. He says, "the parts inside there don't like each other". That translates to it's tearing itself apart. This guy is a super mechanic. Everything is home engineered and built. Some of the big league guys have ask him how to do things. The difference between him and the big league? $$$ Horespower cost $$$ at a very unproportional rate. A little power comes cheap (turn up the pump), the next is a little more expensive (turbo), then a pump upgrade, now a bigger turbo yet, now you blow a head gasket,, now you start braking parts.... on and on....What fun!

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Why does this thing automerge. I intentionally put it in 2 posts so it wouldn't be so long and the topic was different??
I'm new here, and it shows.

 

Ok I need to set a few thing straight
First this is not intended to be a full on performance build I mean for it to be a drivable performance build .( the equivalent would be a 450 hp cummins or a 375 hp 7.3 Ect) taking the stock engine to its comfortable limits. I have personally built 1 ton fords and dodges and I've found what I believe to be the ( comfortable limits ) I have a 2001 7.3 that I pushed past that (comfortable ) mark at 425 hp at the rear wheels. I had a clutch failure which is acceptable I had a trans failure ( output shaft sheared of in the t- case ) un acceptable and it now has had to have an engine replaced. Same with a 1996 12 Valve p pump cummins I had around 500 rwhp I had 2 trans failure a axle shaft brake a headgasket and finally a craked black not due to over heating.
My point is this I want to build this engine to in max comfort point before parts start to scatter . I also don't have unlimited funds for this I'm open to any and all ideas but the outcome will be dependent on the budget realistically I'm hopeing for 150rwhp and 335 ft lbs
And to be clear I'm not that hard on my trucks but i tow a 48ft gooseneck on a regular basis grossing 25-30k and I know how to drive. I just sold my 04 6.0 with 398000 miles that I bought with 125k and it still had the tq to yield bolts in the heads and I had 390 rwhp and I never had any trouble with and I mean any just bought a new truck