2003 6.0 F250,4x4,75k miles. Greetings. I have a bad HPOP according to tech at dealer 8 yrs experience. No diagnostics other then ford VCP scanner. I Already have done ficm, Ford fuel pump, ICP, new oil and all motor craft filters 3 months ago. Now I have crank no start died on the side of road. Truck started shaking at 40 mph suddenly, I assumed that was my injectors losing pressure as HPOP was bleeding off, and then it died, never to refire. I put in a new IPR trying that first and still nothing. Ford tech and scanner shows IPR maxed 85%, ficm voltage good at 48, and ICP only building about 300 psi. Tech said see the squigly line across the screen, showing ICP pressure struggling to make 250-300psi, that is your failed HPOP. I do all my work but ford tech willing to do it on side at night, and priced right. I'd be slow and thorough but again, he is giving me a good price and LOL, I don't bend very well with 6 fused vertebrae 3neck and 3back.

So, even though I have no symptoms of egr or oil cooler issues and only 75k m, clean coolant in degas bottle, EGR valve has a nice charcoal color and no build up, and no moisture. Figured I should have egr welded while there. I do have both edge and sct and now running just edge juice which just adds more fuel pressure 75HP. When running the sct3 street tune or performance tune, I always could smell a hint of coolant as I walked past truck getting out. I loved the power of the SCT and firm shifts but I have stock everything. I swapped back to edge and no coolant smell. I only open her on the highway every now and again to clean up the turbo blades, other then that, I drive normal. I never tow and have no gauges. Tech said he doesn't do egr deletes at dealership so he is not the guy to ask having zero experience with them or installing gauges.

I have an expert welder that will weld this so no worries there. I will have him use 3/16 " stainless in both ends. I assume EGR valve can be left put or will it need to be addressed? Another question is do I still need to install an up pipe or can I leave stock up pipe and if so, will it need any welding. Thanks. I know there are plenty of posts for this most likely, but I covered it all in one.

I figured I can pay my buddy 40 bucks to weld it so why spend the extra on a delete, put it toward the coolant filter, plus it will appear stock if emissions are ever an issue. From what I read, welding is better. Dealer Tech said I have round cooler so that one is the better model with less issues, mainly they fail from plugged oil coolers. I do plan to add a sinister coolant filter just as a precaution. I am not wanting to flush anything because everything looks great, coolant looks new, never have to add any. I read too many horror stories of problems after a flush. I probably should drain the gold and put the CAT ELC in.

It appears most HPOP's are reman. as they want your core so is ford HPOP and ford gaskets a must? or any reman with a 12 month warranty suitable. I see them from 525 to 800. I know I covered alot here so thanks in advance.

 

try to blow air through the cooler where the egr cooler hose connects to oil cooler, if air won't go through it then it is clogged and oil cooler will need to be rebuilt.
I looked at HPOPs and it seemed the best price was actually from Ford, good warranty too, now if you want a HPOP that you won't ever have to worry about again then go with a new Billet one from DIESEL SITE, they are alot better then stock. they are around $1000 but worth it. Yes you can just weld up the egr cooler, You can also use a 35mm freeze blug on back side and a 30mm on the front side and weld them in place, I just use a holesaw and drill out a piece of stainless plate and weld them in, make sure they sit just reccessed so they don't cause a air leak, just leave the EGR valve in place to keep the intake side blocked off so air doesn't leak. The reason most egr delete kits come with the exhaust up pipe is that the later trucks have a scoop in that pipe that restricts flow to the turbo, the 03 and 04 trucks don't have that. just weld the ends of your cooler and clamp it all back up, looks stock but it is just a dummy now. Make sure you weld both ends of EGR cooler that way even if the cooler were to crack in the future it wouldn't even matter.
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20046...lpumphpop.aspx

 

Thank you for the detailed reply. I've never had any issues with this truck until recently and wondering what's next. People tell me better sell that truck before the head gasket fails, injectors, or something else breaks. Although the dealer tech told me that the early model had less issues then later years. When I was in there , they were already doing a complete engine replacement of a new 2013 diesel. I couldn't believe it.

What are your thoughts on flushing the coolant system while there,leaving it or, draining it and running Cat ELC , or flush. Will coolant need to be drained to take the egr cooler off? Like I said earlier, I read so many horror stories after flushing. The dealer tech told me that the dealership makes them flush after they put on a new cooler and he just can't understand why unless it's about making more money when they break getting clogged. He told me he refuses to do it that way and flushes first then changes coolers.

 

I always drain a couple gallons just so I can remove the degass bottle and so coolant level is below the intake, it does not hurt a thing, when I reuse the coolant I just put a rag in the funnel to filter out any sand/debri/ to keep it as clean as possible. The Ford Gold coolant is what I use and it is actually a great coolant. There are people that thought silicates in the coolant is what caused the oil coolers to clogg, that is not correct, the problem is thse motors are "sand Cast" and some of the sand sticks to the casting and was never properly cleaned off at factory, this is what cloggs the oil cooler. I personnaly would rebuild the oil cooler while you are in there, they can clogg in 10k miles with no coolant filter so to be safe do it while the intake is off anyway. a clogged oil cooler can even cause the orings on the injectors fo fail because the oil temps can get so high, I believe this is what causes the later model trucks to have problems with standpipes and dummy plugs blowing orings.