Where to buy fuel lines
#1
Where to buy fuel lines
Going to replace my fuel lines coming from the tank on a 1995 chevy k2500 extended cab long bed.
Where is the best place to buy these from?
Should I use metal or rubber, what size.
Should I replace tank sending unit while doing lines. Also what about the tank sock, replace or do away with, if I do away with it what type of filter should I use.
Anything else I should do while doing this.
Where is the best place to buy these from?
Should I use metal or rubber, what size.
Should I replace tank sending unit while doing lines. Also what about the tank sock, replace or do away with, if I do away with it what type of filter should I use.
Anything else I should do while doing this.
#2
I am assuming old lines were hard lines. I would replace with new stainless hard lines of same size. You can build your own if you can get hold of flaring/bending tools. For stainless lines, it is suggested to go with single flare. Take your time with stainless lines, and do a little research. Stainless is more difficult to work with, and is harder to get a proper seal, but is very durable. Make sure you are flaring to same specs as old lines (there are 37 and 45 degree flares as well as single and double angle). Definitely replace the sock if you are in the tank. They are a common restriction point. It really comes down to may factors though. Budget, time, and skill to name a few.
I plan on doing fuel cell to all stainless single flare lines to an airdog lift pump/filtration setup. Also, dont forget about the line from lift pump to motor. Return lines as well. It all depends on how far you want to go.
Hopefully this gives you some more stuff to look into. Just my 2 cents .
I plan on doing fuel cell to all stainless single flare lines to an airdog lift pump/filtration setup. Also, dont forget about the line from lift pump to motor. Return lines as well. It all depends on how far you want to go.
Hopefully this gives you some more stuff to look into. Just my 2 cents .
#3
#4
I looked around a bit couldn't find any replacement lines for our diesels as I wanted to change mine cause the previous owner used rubber from the LP to the FFM...
If you swap sending unit make sure you use an AC Delco don't waste your time with aftermarket units. I used an airtex and the sick plugged up on less than 1 year. Also I removed the sock once I installed the AC Delco unit. I am running a screw on style filter before the fuel pump. It's all napa stuff, I can get you part numbers if you would like
If you swap sending unit make sure you use an AC Delco don't waste your time with aftermarket units. I used an airtex and the sick plugged up on less than 1 year. Also I removed the sock once I installed the AC Delco unit. I am running a screw on style filter before the fuel pump. It's all napa stuff, I can get you part numbers if you would like
#6
I will be down my shop tomorrow and I will get you the part number for the filter and mount. Would you like sending unit as well?
#8
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Scugog Island ONT.
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 0
Received 103 Likes
on
103 Posts
I am assuming old lines were hard lines. I would replace with new stainless hard lines of same size. You can build your own if you can get hold of flaring/bending tools. For stainless lines, it is suggested to go with single flare. Take your time with stainless lines, and do a little research. Stainless is more difficult to work with, and is harder to get a proper seal, but is very durable. Make sure you are flaring to same specs as old lines (there are 37 and 45 degree flares as well as single and double angle). Definitely replace the sock if you are in the tank. They are a common restriction point. It really comes down to may factors though. Budget, time, and skill to name a few.
I plan on doing fuel cell to all stainless single flare lines to an airdog lift pump/filtration setup. Also, dont forget about the line from lift pump to motor. Return lines as well. It all depends on how far you want to go.
Hopefully this gives you some more stuff to look into. Just my 2 cents .
I plan on doing fuel cell to all stainless single flare lines to an airdog lift pump/filtration setup. Also, dont forget about the line from lift pump to motor. Return lines as well. It all depends on how far you want to go.
Hopefully this gives you some more stuff to look into. Just my 2 cents .
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Sending unit and LP o-ring barb style fittings for use with rubber diesel rated fuel line:
papco part number 905-352 =3/8*4 inches 16mm nut
papco part number 905-350 =5/16*4 inches 14mm nut
Dorman:
part #800-170 3/8" straight
part #800-231 5/16" -90 degree
__________________
Last edited by racer55; 04-09-2014 at 09:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#9
Stainless is meant to be flared to 37 degrees single flare and used with AN fittings.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Sending unit and LP o-ring barb style fittings for use with rubber diesel rated fuel line:
papco part number 905-352 =3/8*4 inches 16mm nut
papco part number 905-350 =5/16*4 inches 14mm nut
Dorman:
part #800-170 3/8" straight
part #800-231 5/16" -90 degree
__________________
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Sending unit and LP o-ring barb style fittings for use with rubber diesel rated fuel line:
papco part number 905-352 =3/8*4 inches 16mm nut
papco part number 905-350 =5/16*4 inches 14mm nut
Dorman:
part #800-170 3/8" straight
part #800-231 5/16" -90 degree
__________________
Not trying to hijack your thread, but I'm confused??? Could you please explain why stainless must be flared to 37 degree? Yes 37 degree flares are for AN fittings(and hydraulic applications if I remember correctly), but stainless break lines are flared to 45 SAE fittings correct? It the 37 degree flare done to reduce stress on the stiff stainless lines? Please elaborate. Thanks
#10
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Scugog Island ONT.
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 0
Received 103 Likes
on
103 Posts
The stiffness/fatigue is the reason as you said for the 37 degree angle.
The 45 double flare and bubble flare are designed to compress when assembled,stainless is too hard to seal that way so the other parts needed along with the 37 degree single flare works better and is re usable.
Brake Plumbing Secrets Revealed!
The 45 double flare and bubble flare are designed to compress when assembled,stainless is too hard to seal that way so the other parts needed along with the 37 degree single flare works better and is re usable.
Brake Plumbing Secrets Revealed!
The following users liked this post:
AdrenalineJunkie (04-11-2014)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jet A Fuel
Tech Article Submission
0
06-05-2015 03:28 PM
Gm3500
Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L
9
05-07-2015 11:01 AM