okay, so i have some small issues i need to deal with and need a little advice on.
i just bought a 97 gmc 2500 with the 6.5 TD for 500 bucks perfect looking truck in and out, it had a bad PMD and the guy just parked it because he didnt know what was causing it to die.. been sitting for 5 years and from what ive been reading, theyre pretty temperamental and im gonna try to walk on eggshells trying to bring her back to life. got there, hooked up my jumper cables and got it to turn over, so not siezed. but my real issue is i have no idea how to clean out the old fuel without damaging these super sensitive fuel compnents, he replaced the injection pump right before he parked it.so i really dont want to mess it up and end up spending 1500 bucks. and depressing part is its got 3/4 tank of fuel in it that i know i cant use draining the tank will be easy, but im reading about bleeding the system? and more than likely ill have to clean the lines somehow, right? i have no idea what im doing, ive worked on gas vehicles all of my life but after reading and studying diesels.. now i really dont see the point in a gas motor, so help would be much appreciated

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there she is.. that ladder rack is worth a couple hundred alone, along with the toolbox

 

Well you could put the fuel line before the Frame mounted pump and let the tank gravity drain till its empty. Once you do that I would jump out the Pump on the frame so that you can turn it on and off. Open the T valve on the top of the engine, put a gallon or two of clean fuel in thank and then run at least a gallon thru the T valve.

Next I would open the filter housing and remove filter and clean it out best you can. Then I would fill halfway with SEAFOAM and also pour a can of seafoam in the tank before you fill with fresh fuel. There is a screw valve on top of the fuel filter you can use to bleed air up to that point.

To get and fuel out after the filter and between it and the injectors you will have to take some stuff apart. You could crack the lines at the injectors and crank the motor over till you get clean fuel, but I think I would just try to start it from there... Thats my 2cents. I may not be 100% right but hey its a start

 

not a big supporter of seafoam, seen it do bad and seen it do good, was thinking of just taking the lines out and cleaning them somehow, but that would get moisture in the lines and ive heard thats no bueno, but thanks man.. 2 cents is more than what ive got on this project

 

hey I hear you there. Everyone has their things they stay away from. I use the **** outta it in all my vehicles gas and diesel. I have ran it thru other diesel and cleared up mis/skip

If you want to pull the injector lines that is very do-able but you have to pull the intake and remove them 1 by 1. Make sure you have a 3/4 crow's foot. I found on my truck i need it to crack the line on the injector behind the turbo.

You could prob clean em with brake clean and then flush with clean diesel fuel...

best of luck

 

I would just empty the tank and get clean fuel in it.
Change the fuel filter and if the directions indicate it-fill the filter housing with seafoam-never used it myself but a lot of people do.

Seafoam as directed in the fuel along with a double dose of fuel conditioner with lubricity additive and marine 0 ash 2 cycle oil at a rate of 1:50 for the first tank and every tank after at a rate of 1:100.
These engines were not built for ultra low sulpher diesel so additives and 2 stroke oil are a must.

Another way to flush injector lines is to pull the glow plugs and crank the engine over to fog out the old fuel,crank for no more than 15 seconds without a 1 minute starter cooldown period.

If there is another product that can do what seafoam does for the good -use it.

 

thanks guys didnt know if there was anything special to do when doing it, but seems pretty straight forward, im almost afraid of this engine now with all of the stuff ive read about it, already lookin into swaps...

 

The engine is a good economy engine-not a powerhouse.

Do the reliability mods and don't push it hard enough to overheat and you will be happy-its the lowest cost for parts you will find.

 

ive noticed with the parts. its the cheapest diesel to run. but reliability mods? like egt guage? please elaborate, you have my attention

 

!st,remove the rad and clean the cooling stack for good airflow-all the fins from all coolers need flushed out with low pressure water.
New AC Delco thermostats if the ones currently installed are questionable.
Kennedy diesel special calibration fan clutch.
aftermarket exhaust with mandrel bent 3" downpipe and 4" system
EGT gauge.
Boost gauge
post filter fuel pressure is a good gauge to have also
If your truck has the round air filter and housing pulling air from the fender(K-47) leave it-best available otherwise get it,cone filters or anything getting air from under the hood is a detriment.

originally posted by buddy MNX mods:

 

and PMD relocation ive heard is a MUST and removing the heat "shield" that just makes the engine hotter and does nothing but cooks it. ive seen these 6.5's with 400k on them and still running, others die very prematurely. im not hard on any of my vehicles, so i guess i should be fine if the block isnt cracked already.. also i was just looking at the turbo and im gonna sound dumb, but it was rusted on the outside. should that give me a clue on what the inside looks like? dont have the truck at my house at a buddys who i bought it from waiting to be towed or i would already be tearing into it. but sitting for 5 years for 500 bucks with zero rust and perfect interior, im not being picky at all, nor am i expecting too much. i just want to be careful, somethin tells me ill go through this thing for about a coup[le months before i even start it