Finding a hole in the line after the lift pump is easy when the lift pump is working because you will have a leak - that is the pressure side.

To check for leaks on the suction side(pre LP) replace the injection pump fuel return line with clear diesel rated hose and look for bubbles in the hose-bubbles indicate an air leak pre LP with a working LP.

To check if the LP is working start the engine and open the water in fuel drain Tee valve-if the engine keeps running and fuel comes out the LP is working well-if the engine stalls the LP is not working or there is a massive restriction in the tank.

Ok sorry man I screwed up reading that last MSG. I put a new lift pump in so tht shouldn't be the problem . If there was air getting into thE fuel lines would it not stall all the time ?

Depends how much air gets in?
It will for sure confuse the optical sensor and make for a poor running engine but a big gulp of air will make it stall..
like I said earlier I think you have more than 1 problem with your truck.

You need to address each problem 1 at a time.

Stalling could be PMD or a side effect of the water contaminating the IP?

Get a a big dose of lubricity additive to try and correct the water damage 1st off.

Pay attention to what happens when it stalls-does the instrument cluster die or or the gauges just fall to 0 as expected with a non running engine to identify if the ignition switch is a problem or not?

Replace the IP fuel return line with clear hose and see if air is getting in rather than just trying to justify what would happen if it was?

Check what happens when it has run for some time when you remove the fuel cap-is there a huge rush of air going into the tank?
Excess vacuum in the tank from a plugged cap vent can exceed the ability of the LP to pump fuel.

Make sure the LP is working-when you bleed the filter during the prime/glow cycle does fuel shoot out or not?
Does the engine die when you open the water in fuel drain valve when idling?

Connect a pressure gauge via a t at the IP fuel inlet that you can watch while driving(taped to the windsheild),as long as the pressure never shows vacuum it is enough.

Vacuum at the IP is very bad and identifies a bad tank cap vent or a collapsed/plugged fuel strainer sock provided the LP is working.

There are more things that can be checked but start there-you have to do the legwork at your end since I can't do it for you-some things I do are reflex and I have to step back and try to direct you as best I can without leaving any details out-tough to do.

Ok I changed te pmd and I made it 200 yards and it stalled didn't fire again or nothing took of the line to the injectors and no drops, had no clicking from the glow plug siliniod , and I pluged my code reader in and it wouldn't connect to the computer in the truck lol this is never going to get better

What did the instrument cluster do at the time of the stall?

Was the PMD you switched to a known good 1 or just 1 that was available?Only a new or knaown good PMD can be used for diagnosis.

Might be that the swapped PMD caused a blown fuse,ECM B I think?

It was a good one a buddy of mine used it for 2 months and he blew his crank so it had no hrs and it was a good one and checked the fuses and none of them where blown, I mean I don't know how to check the big square ones but. Would this make sence as to why my glow plugs didn't work ? Or why I couldn't get my code reader to work ?

The fuel sol fuse is the 1 that is the culprit.

No way to check those?

Use a test light probing both sides of the fuse with key on.

Or remove the fuse and use an ohm meter or even try and make a light bulb glow with some scraps of wire?

The fuel/sol fuse should be a small 1 though in the underhood fuse box I think-or in the small fuse box behind drivers door.

Ya I checked that one and it is good Its just a 10 amp one ?