Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

not sure whats wrong.... if anything

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  #1  
Old 08-14-2013 | 01:19 AM
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So I got a 84 Chevy with 6.2 diesel from my brother. Seamed to run great with the exception of a bit of a knock in the engine(brother said all the 6.2s have it) anyways shortly after I got the truck I took it camping and the first morning I went to start it but had no glow plugs. So I used some starting fluid and got it running but noticed the engine temp gauge and oil pressure gauge weren't working. So over night that stopped working and not sure why. I by passed the go relay with a switch so I have glow plugs again but I can't figure out the gauges. Also ever since I used starting fluid to get it running the one time in rhythem with the knock there's a squiking sound in the engine. It happens almost imeadietly after the knock. So just looking for some help figuring out the gauges but mostly the squiking noise. Seams to run good still

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I'm wondering if I burned out some seals with the starting fluid. I didn't use much just a quick spray into the air filter. And it not smoking anymore then it used too so I'm not sure.
 

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  #2  
Old 08-15-2013 | 10:59 AM
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Starting fluid is not good for diesels but a one or two time thing shouldn't cause an issue with the engine. Does it start up fine with the glow plugs or the engine is hot?
 
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Old 08-15-2013 | 03:49 PM
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Ya runs fine beside the noise it makes. After I wired the plugs into a bottun I only need to hit them for a second to have it start imeadietly. I'm thinking oneof the injectors may be on its way out and that's causing the knock. I'm not sure about that though. Gave the outside of the engine a good look over and still have no clue as to what the squiking noise is.
 
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Old 08-15-2013 | 11:03 PM
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If you're still worried about it you can crack each injector line one at a time with the truck running. Go from one injector line to another (re-tightening the previous line) so only one is leaking at a time. By cutting the fuel back on that injector your engine should begin to have a rough idol (this proves that injector is functioning properly when it has sufficient fuel supply). If your engine does not run any different when you cut the fuel back then that injector is not working properly to begin with. If or when you get to an injector that is sticking open or worn out,(which will cause a fuel knock) by reducing the fuel to it (by cracking the line) this will cause your knock to fade or disappear. If it needs injectors they should only run about $50-60 each. Fuel pump you can get a reman for less than $450.
 
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Old 08-15-2013 | 11:21 PM
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Hey thanks for the reply. That seams like an easy way to try and figure it out so hopefully I can get to that tomorrow. I'll let ya know how it goes.

If I end up needing an injector do I need to do them all or would just the one causing problems?
 
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Old 08-16-2013 | 02:01 AM
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I would replace them all if it is a daily driver or your primary form of transportation. I say this cause they have all most likely had the same amount of miles/fuel run through them so if one is bad the others are probably not too far behind.
 
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Old 08-16-2013 | 09:03 PM
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I have new injectors and IP and not regreted it once one of the least expensive things you should do is get some clear fuel hose it the easiest way to tell if you are having issues pre IP or are getting air bubbles to the IP which is a bad thing and if you feel the need to use starting fluid the best thing i have found to use is non-stick cooking spray like PAM or such Either is a NO NO with the 6.5 good luck with what ever you decide I love my truck
 
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  #8  
Old 08-17-2013 | 01:52 AM
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So I ended up working a 14 hour shift today so I didn't get a chance to look at the truck. Bin thinking about the engine knock and talking to guys at work about it and we figure it must be a bad injector or bent rod. Hopefully it is the injector. And mayhem I didn't really want to use ether but without the glow plugs and being in the mountains it was the only way I get get her running so I could make it home. Does Pam really work for starting it up? Seams like a strange idea to me .love my truck too. Can't wait to have her out on the road again.

Aldo does anyone know if the temp sensor thing in the engine that sends the signal to the glow plug relay would also be the sensor for the engine temp gauge and oil pressure gauge? When my gp's stopped working so did my tengine temp gauge and oil pressure gauge. And I'm thinking they must be connected somehow.
 
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Old 08-19-2013 | 08:55 PM
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You may want to check the oil pressure sending unit... on my '93 there is a circuit that goes through it that will tell the gp's to come on...if the sending unit is shorted out...it will not give the signal to activate them...would also be why the pressure is not indicating...hopefully yours doesn't also have the relay that mine does that goes to the lift pump...
 
  #10  
Old 08-19-2013 | 09:15 PM
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My glow plug relay wasn't working. Its mounted on the inside of the driver side fender. It has a hot wire in. A hot wire out and two smaller wires coming off it. I just put a switch in the hotwire circuit and when I hit the switch the glow plugs come on until I let go of the switch. Where is the oil pressure sending unit located? Is it on the passenger side of the block? If so I think that's what my glow plug relay is wired into.
 


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