ATTENTION all current AMSOIL users
#61
#63
I'll PM you on the pricing, but to answer your other questions...
Yes, you will spend more up front for amsoil, usually 2-2.5 times more than what you are paying now. So how does that save money? If you use the oil the way it is meant to be and your truck allows it, you can easily run 15k on an oil change. If you've been changing oil at 5k intervals, you just increased your interal 3x and now you are saving time and money.
Trucks that should not go beyond OEM intervals without doing OA would be those super modified and those running on VO or bio higher than 15%. You have to watch for fuel dilution there. This also includes the newer trucks with DPF that have the injector in the cyclinder.
As for fuel economy, the potential is there although with just engine oil, it can be unnoticealbe. Some do see it though. With the lower coefficient of friction with synthetics, there should be less drag and more effciency(fuel economy) seen. Most of that is seen with drivetrain synthetics though...tranny and diffs.
Now that I read your question again, are you talking fuel economy or length of service out of the oil???
Rotella is a good oil, but dinos shouldn't be run beyond OEM intervals without OA to verify. Some people do get upwards of 10k on dino, but you should check it.
Basically it comes down to this....syns are more resistant to thermal and oxidative breakdown than dino as shown in testing. HOw does this relate to real world? The basestocks will essentually last a very long time. The key to a long life oil is keeping it clean and making sure the additives aren't deleting. Changing filters at OEM intervals or using the amsoil filter will ensure it stays clean longer. Selecting an oil that has a 'beefy" additive package to start with will ensure it lasts longer as well. Dinos tend to have just enough to make the OEM intervals and aren't as stout. That is part of the reason they run less. Additives are expensive.
Hope I didn't ramble too much. Personal preference is all it is.
Yes, you will spend more up front for amsoil, usually 2-2.5 times more than what you are paying now. So how does that save money? If you use the oil the way it is meant to be and your truck allows it, you can easily run 15k on an oil change. If you've been changing oil at 5k intervals, you just increased your interal 3x and now you are saving time and money.
Trucks that should not go beyond OEM intervals without doing OA would be those super modified and those running on VO or bio higher than 15%. You have to watch for fuel dilution there. This also includes the newer trucks with DPF that have the injector in the cyclinder.
As for fuel economy, the potential is there although with just engine oil, it can be unnoticealbe. Some do see it though. With the lower coefficient of friction with synthetics, there should be less drag and more effciency(fuel economy) seen. Most of that is seen with drivetrain synthetics though...tranny and diffs.
Now that I read your question again, are you talking fuel economy or length of service out of the oil???
Rotella is a good oil, but dinos shouldn't be run beyond OEM intervals without OA to verify. Some people do get upwards of 10k on dino, but you should check it.
Basically it comes down to this....syns are more resistant to thermal and oxidative breakdown than dino as shown in testing. HOw does this relate to real world? The basestocks will essentually last a very long time. The key to a long life oil is keeping it clean and making sure the additives aren't deleting. Changing filters at OEM intervals or using the amsoil filter will ensure it stays clean longer. Selecting an oil that has a 'beefy" additive package to start with will ensure it lasts longer as well. Dinos tend to have just enough to make the OEM intervals and aren't as stout. That is part of the reason they run less. Additives are expensive.
Hope I didn't ramble too much. Personal preference is all it is.
#64
air filter
can you help me with my air filter it has a 5 inch flange mounted to a plastic flex pipe the filter actually mounts to one end of a piece of pvc and the flex pipe connects to the other end not sure if its the right filter but its whats on the truck but the filter is crushed and deteriorating can you help me with finding the right filter hopefully one thats not hateful expensive.2001 24 valve stock thanks.
#65
Well, we have just about every flange size BUT the 5". They have 3, 2.5, 4, 4.125, 4.5 and 6. Here's a page with the pics: http://www.amsoil.com/products/ea_fi..._and_Specs.pdf
If you were able to taper down to the 4.5, the 4510 is the most popular filter on these trucks.
If you were able to taper down to the 4.5, the 4510 is the most popular filter on these trucks.
#68
#69
GMC...I'll send you a PM on the pricing.
These air filters are dry filters. Cleaned with light air pressure or vacuum. In the testing they did when these came out, they filtered just as well as the K&N's. They also promote them as a 100k, 4 year filter. That I don't subscibe to. It may work IF you never drive in dusty conditions, but that's near impossible. I would also buy the prefilter for it.(overwrap). This keeps the big crap out of the pleets. (bugs, etc.)
Another thing in small print...is if your engine is modified such that it is producing a lot more HP than stock, they don't garantee these either. That being said, lots of these have been bought and used on such trucks without problems, but I can see where some of the "odd" shaped ones could be subject to collapsing since they may be a bit weaker than a perfectly round one.
Mine has not collasped but mine is a smaller one.
These air filters are dry filters. Cleaned with light air pressure or vacuum. In the testing they did when these came out, they filtered just as well as the K&N's. They also promote them as a 100k, 4 year filter. That I don't subscibe to. It may work IF you never drive in dusty conditions, but that's near impossible. I would also buy the prefilter for it.(overwrap). This keeps the big crap out of the pleets. (bugs, etc.)
Another thing in small print...is if your engine is modified such that it is producing a lot more HP than stock, they don't garantee these either. That being said, lots of these have been bought and used on such trucks without problems, but I can see where some of the "odd" shaped ones could be subject to collapsing since they may be a bit weaker than a perfectly round one.
Mine has not collasped but mine is a smaller one.