94-03 Injector and Glow Plug Removal And Replacement
#1
10-24-2008 | 08:34 PM
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From: Da' Dirty South
94-03 Injector and Glow Plug Removal And Replacement
some of this will look familiar from other threads, but are needed for this how to....
the R&R steps for each one are the same for the most part. 94-98 disregard the intercooler piping removal.
tools needed:
7/16" deepwell for t-bolt clamps on intercooler piping
13mm deep and shallow well sockets
13mm wrench, ratcheting is prefered
wobble
various length extentions
flat head screw driver for the intake tube to the turbo
5/16 shallow well socket for injector bolt
10mm deep well for glow plug removal
3/16 allen wrench
2 pound deal blow hammer
12" pry bar (or ninja grip for injector removal)
Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline)
to start off your engine should look like this
let your motor cool down as your hands will love you long time.....
start off loosening the t-bolt clamps on the intercooler pipes. i only loosened one on each end and left the other one and the boot attached. there will be 2 on the intake / outlet on top of the motor pictured above and one on each side of the radiator pictured here. use the 7/16 socket on these. once loose remove them from the truck. it takes a little wiggling but you can get them out relatively easy.
passenger side
driver side
also take the MAP sensor bracket loose, 3 nuts, with the 7/16 and unplug the harness from it and lay it across on the top of the motor
take loose the intake tube from the airbox to the turbo. there is an adapter in the middle that connects to the valve cover for crank case ventilation. this is held on by the valve cover bolts. take the 2 tubes off each side of it for now. use the flat head screwdriver for this
the motor should then look like this
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the R&R steps for each one are the same for the most part. 94-98 disregard the intercooler piping removal.
tools needed:
7/16" deepwell for t-bolt clamps on intercooler piping
13mm deep and shallow well sockets
13mm wrench, ratcheting is prefered
wobble
various length extentions
flat head screw driver for the intake tube to the turbo
5/16 shallow well socket for injector bolt
10mm deep well for glow plug removal
3/16 allen wrench
2 pound deal blow hammer
12" pry bar (or ninja grip for injector removal)
Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline)
to start off your engine should look like this
let your motor cool down as your hands will love you long time.....
start off loosening the t-bolt clamps on the intercooler pipes. i only loosened one on each end and left the other one and the boot attached. there will be 2 on the intake / outlet on top of the motor pictured above and one on each side of the radiator pictured here. use the 7/16 socket on these. once loose remove them from the truck. it takes a little wiggling but you can get them out relatively easy.
passenger side
driver side
also take the MAP sensor bracket loose, 3 nuts, with the 7/16 and unplug the harness from it and lay it across on the top of the motor
take loose the intake tube from the airbox to the turbo. there is an adapter in the middle that connects to the valve cover for crank case ventilation. this is held on by the valve cover bolts. take the 2 tubes off each side of it for now. use the flat head screwdriver for this
the motor should then look like this
Disclaimer Notice
About This Document
The intent of this disclaimer notice is to limit personal liabilities as set out within this document. Therefore the title 'Author' means the person who has claimed ownership of this post that you read on webpage.
No Warranties
This informative post is provided "as is" without any representations or warranties, express or implied. The author makes no representations or warranties in relation to this post or the information and materials provided on this post.
Without prejudice to the generality of the foregoing paragraph, the author does not warrant that:
- this post will be constantly available, or available at all; or
- the information in this post is complete, true, accurate or non-misleading.
Nothing in this post constitutes, or is meant to constitute, advice of any kind. [If you require advice in relation to any [legal, financial, technical or medical] matter you should consult an appropriate professional.]
Limitations of Liability
The author will not be liable to you (whether under the law of contact, the law of torts or otherwise) in relation to the contents of, or use of, or otherwise in connection with, this post:
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These limitations of liability apply even if the author has been expressly advised of the potential loss.
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Nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit any warranty implied by law that it would be unlawful to exclude or limit; and nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit the author liability in respect of any:
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Last edited by Benjamin; 10-11-2010 at 02:19 PM.
#2
10-24-2008 | 08:42 PM
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Da' Dirty South
next is to take the 13mm deep well and remove the 2 nuts on the passenger side valve cover. one holds down a ground and one holds down the oil dip stick. there are also 2 on the driver side holding the crank case vent intake adapter in place. remove these and pull up on the intake adapter thing it should pop out of the tube going into the valve cover.
after this start removing all the valve cover bolts. on the ones that the nut was removed use the deep well, on all others use the shallow well and the wobble and extensions to whatever combination that works well for you. on the passenger side where the A/C box is you might be able to get at those bolts better from through the wheel well with the 7/16 wrench easier than up top with a socket. on the driver side there is a bolt behind the breather extension that has the hose coming out of it. use the wrench there. a socket WON'T fit. after removing all the bolts (10 on each side) remove the valve covers from each side.
in this picture you can see in the middle of the gasket ( in between the 2nd and 3rd injector on that side) is the plug for the harness. unplug it, unplug the main harness from the outside and remove the gasket. BEWARE that the under valve cover harness is clipped to the gasket between the 1st and 2nd injector and between the 3rd and 4th injector. pull this loose and remove the harness. on a 94-98 truck there will be 2 plugs instead of one
do this on both sides. in this picture you can see on the valve spring side of the injector, between the 2 valve springs there is a bolt, 5/16 will remove this bolt.
this is the only bolt you need to remove to get the injector out. the "bracket" that that bolt holds down will then slide up, towards the electronic connection, and will slip out from underneath the front bolt. then use the pry bar or ninja grip to pull the injector out. the only thing holding it in is the o-rings. when you pull it out look into the hole and make sure that no o-rings are left in there and the copper washer is still around the injector tip. don't worry about any fuel and oil that runs into the Cyl. i will address that later.
after all 8 are removed take the oil deflector off the old ones with the 3/16 allen wrench.
install on the new ones and tighten the crap out of them. also place the bracket on the injector where this deflector will line up with the discharge hole in the injector.
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after this start removing all the valve cover bolts. on the ones that the nut was removed use the deep well, on all others use the shallow well and the wobble and extensions to whatever combination that works well for you. on the passenger side where the A/C box is you might be able to get at those bolts better from through the wheel well with the 7/16 wrench easier than up top with a socket. on the driver side there is a bolt behind the breather extension that has the hose coming out of it. use the wrench there. a socket WON'T fit. after removing all the bolts (10 on each side) remove the valve covers from each side.
in this picture you can see in the middle of the gasket ( in between the 2nd and 3rd injector on that side) is the plug for the harness. unplug it, unplug the main harness from the outside and remove the gasket. BEWARE that the under valve cover harness is clipped to the gasket between the 1st and 2nd injector and between the 3rd and 4th injector. pull this loose and remove the harness. on a 94-98 truck there will be 2 plugs instead of one
do this on both sides. in this picture you can see on the valve spring side of the injector, between the 2 valve springs there is a bolt, 5/16 will remove this bolt.
this is the only bolt you need to remove to get the injector out. the "bracket" that that bolt holds down will then slide up, towards the electronic connection, and will slip out from underneath the front bolt. then use the pry bar or ninja grip to pull the injector out. the only thing holding it in is the o-rings. when you pull it out look into the hole and make sure that no o-rings are left in there and the copper washer is still around the injector tip. don't worry about any fuel and oil that runs into the Cyl. i will address that later.
after all 8 are removed take the oil deflector off the old ones with the 3/16 allen wrench.
install on the new ones and tighten the crap out of them. also place the bracket on the injector where this deflector will line up with the discharge hole in the injector.
Disclaimer Notice
About This Document
The intent of this disclaimer notice is to limit personal liabilities as set out within this document. Therefore the title 'Author' means the person who has claimed ownership of this post that you read on webpage.
No Warranties
This informative post is provided "as is" without any representations or warranties, express or implied. The author makes no representations or warranties in relation to this post or the information and materials provided on this post.
Without prejudice to the generality of the foregoing paragraph, the author does not warrant that:
- this post will be constantly available, or available at all; or
- the information in this post is complete, true, accurate or non-misleading.
Nothing in this post constitutes, or is meant to constitute, advice of any kind. [If you require advice in relation to any [legal, financial, technical or medical] matter you should consult an appropriate professional.]
Limitations of Liability
The author will not be liable to you (whether under the law of contact, the law of torts or otherwise) in relation to the contents of, or use of, or otherwise in connection with, this post:
- [to the extent that the post is provided free-of-charge, for any direct loss;]
- for any indirect, special or consequential loss; or
- for any business losses, loss of revenue, income, profits or anticipated savings, loss of contracts or business relationships, loss of reputation or goodwill, or loss or corruption of information or data.
These limitations of liability apply even if the author has been expressly advised of the potential loss.
Exceptions
Nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit any warranty implied by law that it would be unlawful to exclude or limit; and nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit the author liability in respect of any:
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- fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation on the part of the author; or
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If any provision of this post disclaimer is, or is found to be, unenforceable under applicable law, that will not affect the enforceability of the other provisions of this post disclaimer.
Last edited by Benjamin; 10-11-2010 at 02:19 PM.
#3
10-24-2008 | 09:06 PM
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Da' Dirty South
when looking at the injector in the head, at the top right corner there is a white wire that was removed when the harness was unplugged. this is for the glow plugs. remove the glow plugs using the 10mm deepwell. remove all 8.
next is to prep the new injectors for installation. i used petroleum jelly found at walmart or any other store that sells health products. lube up all 3 o-rings on the new injectors, also remove the new copper gasket at the tip and put a little petroleum jelly behind the gasket and stick it back to the tip, this will keep the washer from falling off during installation.
after lubing them up slide it back in the hole for the injector. slide the bracket that goes over the bolt up and tap the injector in the hole with a rubber mallet or a dead blow. mine was a cheap 2 pound plastic dead blow. NEVER use a metal or hard hammer as it may damage the electronics. you will hear when the injector bottoms out when tapping on it. after it is down re-install the 5/16 bolt that holds it in place. snug it up good as i don't know the actual tq spec. do this on all 8.
next is to put put the valve covers back on and only put 2-3 bolts to temporarily seal them down.
then BUMP, don't crank, bump the motor over 15-20 times. what this does is slowly pushes the oil and fuel out the glow plug holes and contains everything under the valve cover. after you are sure the motor has made 2-3 complete revolutions. this can also be done by turning the crank over by hand using a socket.
after this is done remove the valve covers and reinstall the glowplugs and the under valve cover harness, plug in the injectors and glow plugs.
at this time i would change the oil and filter. pour the new oil through the head where the injectors are.
the next thing to do is fire the truck up. i did mine with the valve covers off to look and make sure that all the injectors were firing. if you don't want the valve covers off you can put them back on but it is easier to hear the injectors fire with them off.
first thing is to kick the key on a few times and let the fuel system prime up. then crank the motor for 30 seconds or so. the truck isn't going to crank. let the starter cool down for 2-3 minutes. then crank again. a booster charger would be a good idea to keep the batteries from draining and going dead. after about 6-10 cranking sessions the HPOP should be primed and the truck should start to fire. it will start rough and you will have to help keep it running. after it runs a few minutes the idle should be smooth. shut the truck off, and re-assemble the valve covers, the intake tube, and the intercooler pipes, plug back in the MAP sensor, mount it back on the A/C box and it all is done. the first few times you crank the truck after injector installation it may crank a little longer than normal. this is normal as the HPOP may still have a few air pockets left. after i drove mine a mile or so down the road and came back home mine cranked right up.
i hope i didn't miss anything. if anyone needs any help PM me or ask here.
Disclaimer Notice
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The intent of this disclaimer notice is to limit personal liabilities as set out within this document. Therefore the title 'Author' means the person who has claimed ownership of this post that you read on webpage.
No Warranties
This informative post is provided "as is" without any representations or warranties, express or implied. The author makes no representations or warranties in relation to this post or the information and materials provided on this post.
Without prejudice to the generality of the foregoing paragraph, the author does not warrant that:
- this post will be constantly available, or available at all; or
- the information in this post is complete, true, accurate or non-misleading.
Nothing in this post constitutes, or is meant to constitute, advice of any kind. [If you require advice in relation to any [legal, financial, technical or medical] matter you should consult an appropriate professional.]
Limitations of Liability
The author will not be liable to you (whether under the law of contact, the law of torts or otherwise) in relation to the contents of, or use of, or otherwise in connection with, this post:
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- for any indirect, special or consequential loss; or
- for any business losses, loss of revenue, income, profits or anticipated savings, loss of contracts or business relationships, loss of reputation or goodwill, or loss or corruption of information or data.
These limitations of liability apply even if the author has been expressly advised of the potential loss.
Exceptions
Nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit any warranty implied by law that it would be unlawful to exclude or limit; and nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit the author liability in respect of any:
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- fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation on the part of the author; or
- matter which it would be illegal or unlawful for the author to exclude or limit, or to attempt or purport to exclude or limit, its liability.
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If you do not think they are reasonable, you must not use this post.
Other Parties
You accept that, as a limited liability entity, the author has an interest in limiting the personal liability of its Admins and Moderators. You agree that you will not bring any claim personally against the author's fellow Admins or Moderators in respect of any losses you suffer in connection with the post.
Without prejudice to the foregoing paragraph, you agree that the limitations of warranties and liability set out in this post disclaimer will protect the author's Admins, Moderators, agents, subsidiaries, successors, assigns and sub-contractors as well as the author.
Unenforceable Provisions
If any provision of this post disclaimer is, or is found to be, unenforceable under applicable law, that will not affect the enforceability of the other provisions of this post disclaimer.
next is to prep the new injectors for installation. i used petroleum jelly found at walmart or any other store that sells health products. lube up all 3 o-rings on the new injectors, also remove the new copper gasket at the tip and put a little petroleum jelly behind the gasket and stick it back to the tip, this will keep the washer from falling off during installation.
after lubing them up slide it back in the hole for the injector. slide the bracket that goes over the bolt up and tap the injector in the hole with a rubber mallet or a dead blow. mine was a cheap 2 pound plastic dead blow. NEVER use a metal or hard hammer as it may damage the electronics. you will hear when the injector bottoms out when tapping on it. after it is down re-install the 5/16 bolt that holds it in place. snug it up good as i don't know the actual tq spec. do this on all 8.
next is to put put the valve covers back on and only put 2-3 bolts to temporarily seal them down.
then BUMP, don't crank, bump the motor over 15-20 times. what this does is slowly pushes the oil and fuel out the glow plug holes and contains everything under the valve cover. after you are sure the motor has made 2-3 complete revolutions. this can also be done by turning the crank over by hand using a socket.
after this is done remove the valve covers and reinstall the glowplugs and the under valve cover harness, plug in the injectors and glow plugs.
at this time i would change the oil and filter. pour the new oil through the head where the injectors are.
the next thing to do is fire the truck up. i did mine with the valve covers off to look and make sure that all the injectors were firing. if you don't want the valve covers off you can put them back on but it is easier to hear the injectors fire with them off.
first thing is to kick the key on a few times and let the fuel system prime up. then crank the motor for 30 seconds or so. the truck isn't going to crank. let the starter cool down for 2-3 minutes. then crank again. a booster charger would be a good idea to keep the batteries from draining and going dead. after about 6-10 cranking sessions the HPOP should be primed and the truck should start to fire. it will start rough and you will have to help keep it running. after it runs a few minutes the idle should be smooth. shut the truck off, and re-assemble the valve covers, the intake tube, and the intercooler pipes, plug back in the MAP sensor, mount it back on the A/C box and it all is done. the first few times you crank the truck after injector installation it may crank a little longer than normal. this is normal as the HPOP may still have a few air pockets left. after i drove mine a mile or so down the road and came back home mine cranked right up.
i hope i didn't miss anything. if anyone needs any help PM me or ask here.
Disclaimer Notice
About This Document
The intent of this disclaimer notice is to limit personal liabilities as set out within this document. Therefore the title 'Author' means the person who has claimed ownership of this post that you read on webpage.
No Warranties
This informative post is provided "as is" without any representations or warranties, express or implied. The author makes no representations or warranties in relation to this post or the information and materials provided on this post.
Without prejudice to the generality of the foregoing paragraph, the author does not warrant that:
- this post will be constantly available, or available at all; or
- the information in this post is complete, true, accurate or non-misleading.
Nothing in this post constitutes, or is meant to constitute, advice of any kind. [If you require advice in relation to any [legal, financial, technical or medical] matter you should consult an appropriate professional.]
Limitations of Liability
The author will not be liable to you (whether under the law of contact, the law of torts or otherwise) in relation to the contents of, or use of, or otherwise in connection with, this post:
- [to the extent that the post is provided free-of-charge, for any direct loss;]
- for any indirect, special or consequential loss; or
- for any business losses, loss of revenue, income, profits or anticipated savings, loss of contracts or business relationships, loss of reputation or goodwill, or loss or corruption of information or data.
These limitations of liability apply even if the author has been expressly advised of the potential loss.
Exceptions
Nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit any warranty implied by law that it would be unlawful to exclude or limit; and nothing in this post disclaimer will exclude or limit the author liability in respect of any:
- death or personal injury caused by the author's negligence;
- fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation on the part of the author; or
- matter which it would be illegal or unlawful for the author to exclude or limit, or to attempt or purport to exclude or limit, its liability.
Reasonableness
By using this post, you agree that the exclusions and limitations of liability set out in this website disclaimer are reasonable.
If you do not think they are reasonable, you must not use this post.
Other Parties
You accept that, as a limited liability entity, the author has an interest in limiting the personal liability of its Admins and Moderators. You agree that you will not bring any claim personally against the author's fellow Admins or Moderators in respect of any losses you suffer in connection with the post.
Without prejudice to the foregoing paragraph, you agree that the limitations of warranties and liability set out in this post disclaimer will protect the author's Admins, Moderators, agents, subsidiaries, successors, assigns and sub-contractors as well as the author.
Unenforceable Provisions
If any provision of this post disclaimer is, or is found to be, unenforceable under applicable law, that will not affect the enforceability of the other provisions of this post disclaimer.
Last edited by Benjamin; 10-11-2010 at 02:19 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Benjamin (10-25-2008)
#5
10-25-2008 | 10:43 AM
#6
04-18-2009 | 10:21 PM
Diesel Fan
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: chicago,il
I am looking at replacing my stock injectors with Swamps 175/146 Stage 1 soon
is this procedure easy for a novice? I do have some friends that are willing to help/more mechanical than me.
going to install new glow plugs as well
is this procedure easy for a novice? I do have some friends that are willing to help/more mechanical than me.
going to install new glow plugs as well
