BUMP OK getting real close to putting up my reports I will say that I have overdone some of this I kinda got a little excited over the prospect of having my cam profile ground sometime soon. I tryed to send off my numbers to Ken at Oregon cam but the email I have didn't work I will call him and get the right one, I dont want to put out cam numbers that can't be ground on a stock cam so I will keep my grind to myself untill he says it will work. I will put up the stock and typ 4 info verry soon with numbers on how boost and compression work together with flow to make a better tork curve. again thanks for waiting for me to get this together there is so much info to scan and import that it just takes alot of time just to get it ready to put up on the thread.:s::pca1:

Ok been talking to ken about ramp rates on the cam, the stock cam has a base circle of 1.580" and the lift is only .2535 this cam is BIG with a little bump on it. so this makes it a good starting point for a new cam but... we can only cut the base circle so much or the lifter will hit the end of the stroke in the dog bone clip that holds the lifter in the bore. I tryed to measure the clearance and I get about .100" so I think we can only cut .050 or .060 to be safe. ken thinks I might be a little agressive with my ramp rate so he sent me some more info on some more lobe profiles for me to study. This means I might need to run more runs on the computer to tweek my cam profile. the cam needs to be ground on both the base and the lobe to make it have a larger lobe area and faster ramps to get the valve opened quicker so it can stay open longer then shut faster to minimize overlap thats what seems to work on the dyno. the stock cam is so gentle its almost funny. I have played with the valve timing some but the lobe center is the hardest thing to change on a regrind because the lobe needs to be moved this adds to the amount of metal that needs to be removed so you can only move it a few degrees. Look Im rambling again.... so I will get this figured out and post the results when its done. :humm:

bump.... Ok just got info that my grind is just a tick to agressive," I was thinking it might be" So I am going to tame it down Just a little bit. and recheck the data. I hope to send off a cam to get ground in a week or so, then when it comes back I will fit it into my block with a rod and piston and run some tests with some clay on the piston to check all the clearances. I will use a stock piston so I can be sure it will work in a stock engine. I will be using pistons for a decked engine when I build my mine later. when this is done I can be confident that I can give out the cam grind info without risk off damage to anyone's engines. This whole process has taken more time than I had first thought it would, So I thankyou for your patience. :argh:

Bump Ok now that I have the cam profile Just about right, I have ran into another problem. My first goal was to get a new cam for this engine that would run in stock trim. Well it looks like thats not going to work I now have valve float at 3400 rpm with 15 psi boost. the program uses the weight of the valve train componants and the valve spring rate to calculate the potential for float. the more boost pressure and exhaust pressure you have the more likely you will float the valves. This new profile opens the valves faster and farther generating more enertia. So this cam will need ugraded springs. I have found some from COMP that will work without machine work on the heads. part #926-16 (I have not checked this myself) this spring is a single with a damper like the stock springs. the stock spring has about 82lbs of closed pressure at install hight of 1.80 and 220lbs 1.20 now the valve only moves .380 so it never compresses enuff to reach that rate. the COMP springs are 108lbs at 1.80 install and is 317lbs at 1.30 now my cam opens .398 gross lift so the pressure will be much better than that of the stock springs. Now with this info I will need to run some more test to prove this on the dyno before I can grind the cam. :argh: This whole cam thing is getting more complicated as I get closer to getting it done. next problem is, will the lifters be able to hold up under this added pressure? How about the pushrods? I was thinking I would need custom length pushrods anyway. :dang: Some of the psd guys have been runnin upgraded springs on there engines without problems so I am thinking I will be ok, I will keep working on this and post more when I have more info

:pca1::rocking:

Ok the sun finally came out here in washington so I have been realy busy. I have been told the pushrods and lifters will be fine with the extra 120lbs of spring pressure, so that makes me feel better. the cam grinder needs to get back to me on the info I emailed him then its all a go on gettin this done. :w2: Im still waiting,....He must be busy too...:s:

subscribed, :pca1:
How dose your cam profile compare to a stock powerstroke cam profile? Could you base your specs off of one of those cams? Seeing as how those engines were designed with a turbo from the start, and similar displacement.
Your probably way past this point anyways, just something I thought of while reading this thread for the first time.

BUMP.....Got tired of waiting,,,,So I contacted Scott at DELTA CAMS and now I am bouncing my info over to him for his opinion. DELTA is the company that regrinds the TYP4 torq cam for the IDI. Scott said he would look at my profile and tell me what he thinks. We talked on the phone for a few minutes and he really knows his cams. He agrees with me on the fact that we need a more turbo specific profile. So I will hear something from him soon I hope. SAK778 the 7.3 psd cam profile is the same as the IDI. The part number is differant because of the addition of the cam sensor and no mechanical fuel pump lobe. but the cam lift and duration is the same as the IDI. :tu:

im running a 88 california IDI .... what kinda stock N/A power shoul i get .....
i did recently turned the pump up about 1.5 flats.... sure made a big difference....
i need to know comp. ratio and approximate power lvl's factory..... if you can find them

If you look up on the web you can find all the stock power outputs of the engine. The only way to see your trucks power is on a dyno. There are alot of things that can make more power and torq. The best thing to do is get a free flowing exhaust and a cold air intake upgrade. You need a pyro before you turn up the fuel verry much on a NA engine with no extra air going in the EGT's go up real fast. All the IDI engines were 21.5 to 1 CR there were some HIGH ALTITUDE engines that were something like 22 to 1 but I havent confirmed that for sure. All the info you could ever need is on this and other diesel site's. My CAM Guy scott is checking my info now, I hope to hear something back from him soon.