Frantz bypass filter installation
#1
Frantz bypass filter installation
Hello everyone. I recently had my 6.0 "bulletproofed" by having the head gaskets and ARP stud kit, EGR delete, '07 oil cooler, coolant filter, and a SCT programmer installed. I had to change a dead injector, the third one now, which made me realize how touchy this engine is to oil contamination. I think the oil should stay a lot cleaner with the EGR deleted, but I`ve decided to go for a bypass oil filter to keep my oil way cleaner and extend my injector life. I`m probably going with a Frantz TP filter. My question is, are there ports on the engine I can run my supply and return lines to and from? All the installs I see on 6.0's are using billet caps on the oil filter and oil filler to supply and return oil. Thanks for looking!
#2
No ports that are easily used. The caps haven't shown to create any issues.
My experience has shown a quality oil, OEM filters and routine maintenance is key. Do not believe any claims to take the oil past 10k intervals....just not good. I say this as I have 226k on my original injectors.
My experience has shown a quality oil, OEM filters and routine maintenance is key. Do not believe any claims to take the oil past 10k intervals....just not good. I say this as I have 226k on my original injectors.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I figure cleaner oil has to be better, and I was hoping to go to 10 000 miles per oil change with a bypass filter. I have Ford filters and synthetic oil in it now, but I bought it used with 72000 miles.(no idea how it was maintained) I'm at 109 000 now. How many miles apart do you do your oil changes, and what oil have you been using?
Last edited by stovepipe699; 12-02-2012 at 11:20 PM.
#4
5k miles on oil changes, no questions asked for me. OEM oil filters ONLY. Karl is probably the only guy on here that goes past 5k miles on his oil changes, but he was doing oil analysis to ensure his oil was still good. I run Rotella 5w-40 synthetic with motorcraft oil filter.
Some Rev-X or similar would help too...
Some Rev-X or similar would help too...
#5
Well, I got called out, time to fill in the blanks.
I used to run at 7500 mile intervals, then I got this idea to do an oil analysis at Speedco. Creeping up on 7500 they told me that it was still healthy. I don't have the numbers now, but I did do a thread about it here. Anyway, at 10K I dumped it and had another OA done, it came back good as well. I'll test it again when I dump this oil at 10K, but I don't see anything changing. Because I run 35s, I hand calculate in the error between indicated and actual mileage to get my 10K number (about 9100 indicated).
Oh yeah, this is all on Rotella T conventional oil. I really believe that you could go farther on T5 or T6. I'm right at 104K, I've had the truck since 33K, and it's stuck two injectors open (NOT at the same time). However, I believe, that like head gaskets, there is no definitive if/then as to what makes them fail. Heavy Assault has 200+ on his OEMs.
BTW, what so significant about a 2007 oil cooler? The opening post specified an '07 oil cooler, I thought they were all the same from 03-07.
I used to run at 7500 mile intervals, then I got this idea to do an oil analysis at Speedco. Creeping up on 7500 they told me that it was still healthy. I don't have the numbers now, but I did do a thread about it here. Anyway, at 10K I dumped it and had another OA done, it came back good as well. I'll test it again when I dump this oil at 10K, but I don't see anything changing. Because I run 35s, I hand calculate in the error between indicated and actual mileage to get my 10K number (about 9100 indicated).
Oh yeah, this is all on Rotella T conventional oil. I really believe that you could go farther on T5 or T6. I'm right at 104K, I've had the truck since 33K, and it's stuck two injectors open (NOT at the same time). However, I believe, that like head gaskets, there is no definitive if/then as to what makes them fail. Heavy Assault has 200+ on his OEMs.
BTW, what so significant about a 2007 oil cooler? The opening post specified an '07 oil cooler, I thought they were all the same from 03-07.
#7
#8
I have tried to remain with the OEM interval of 7500 miles. Based off all the data I found I never exceed 10k. I figured in an emergency situation I could go past 7500 intervals when required say family or weather related.
My oil selection has been varied over the years. All synthetics but various names as they have popped up. Some are much better than others but your motor will tell you which one is the preferred. I would recommend Mobil 1, Valvoline Extreme, Rot T6 and Delo 400 LE. I have found all of these to work very well for my motor. I wanted to use oils I could find just about anywhere and were reasonably priced. There are others out there but take a bit more work to find if needed.
My oil selection has been varied over the years. All synthetics but various names as they have popped up. Some are much better than others but your motor will tell you which one is the preferred. I would recommend Mobil 1, Valvoline Extreme, Rot T6 and Delo 400 LE. I have found all of these to work very well for my motor. I wanted to use oils I could find just about anywhere and were reasonably priced. There are others out there but take a bit more work to find if needed.
#9
#10
Came across this thread, and just wanted to note something.
Ford DID upgrade the coolers - there is a newer '11 row' cooler vs the earlier '10 row' style. If you have 'dimples' in the top of your oil cooler, you have the old cooler.
If you have a nice flat top on your oil cooler, you have the new 11 row core.
Just FYI, as searching oil cooler on google brought this thread up!
Ford DID upgrade the coolers - there is a newer '11 row' cooler vs the earlier '10 row' style. If you have 'dimples' in the top of your oil cooler, you have the old cooler.
If you have a nice flat top on your oil cooler, you have the new 11 row core.
Just FYI, as searching oil cooler on google brought this thread up!
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Stumblefoot (06-13-2022)
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