5.9L Rotary Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps Related To Performance And Longevity

head studs

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  #11  
Old 03-07-2010 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tltruckparts
do you have studs for your truck? if so are they the arp ones? and if they are could you get me the model number so i know what ones to order. thanks!
I didn't put them in, the PO put them in, but I have the paperwork, so I will see if there is a P/N on them for ya!
 
  #12  
Old 03-07-2010 | 08:12 PM
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ARP studs require milling the rocker pedestals.

A1 studs don't. They do require removing a little of the webbing in the top of the valve covers.

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The stud portion of the ARP kit includes studs for the rockers that are just a bit too short to ensure full engagement of the stud and nut threads when the studs are fully seated in the head. Thus, the pedestals need milling to give the room needed.
The A1s on the other hand, have rocker studs that are plenty long to have all the threads engage but then they're a bit too tall and can (not always) interfere with the valve cover's sitting square on the head and sealing proper. Using pliers to twist the offending webs out of the way fixes it.

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I recommend getting the A1 stud kit from Haisley Machine (Vann) as they are the creator of the original "Stud Kit" for the Cummins 12v. Top shelf support.
 

Last edited by BC847; 03-07-2010 at 08:18 PM.
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  #13  
Old 03-07-2010 | 08:39 PM
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David I was coming in here to send you a link to see if you could help out! You beat me to it!
 
  #14  
Old 03-07-2010 | 09:01 PM
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ARP part number is 247-4203, according to my paperwork.
 
  #15  
Old 03-07-2010 | 09:41 PM
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hey BC847 which stud kits require bottom tapping the block? or is that how you get the A1's to fit with out needing to remove the fins off of the valve covers? and which studs require machining of the head and block due to increased diameter? i've seen the different variations of the product just dont know all the details of the installation.
 
  #16  
Old 03-07-2010 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
hey BC847 which stud kits require bottom tapping the block? or is that how you get the A1's to fit with out needing to remove the fins off of the valve covers? and which studs require machining of the head and block due to increased diameter? i've seen the different variations of the product just dont know all the details of the installation.
All head studs should be bottom tapped for maximum strength and holding power.
 
  #17  
Old 03-07-2010 | 10:17 PM
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i looked into the A1 studs and i think ill be going with the ARP'S. i cant afford a 700 dollar price tag on freakin head studs
 
  #18  
Old 03-07-2010 | 10:34 PM
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How much will the mill work cost you? You have to have a machine shop do it. It must be perfect.
 
  #19  
Old 03-07-2010 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by stackx2
i am pretty sure thay are the same. and yes you need to have them machined it was only 75 bucks at herboth machine shop in marysville, if you dont get a true flat surface on the rocker blocks you wont get a true reading when you torque them down because the nut on the stud will move on the uneven surface
Originally Posted by RSWORDS
How much will the mill work cost you? You have to have a machine shop do it. It must be perfect.
stackx2 lives 20 minutes from me so ill probably have that same machine shop do it. do you have to take the whole head in or can you take just the pedestals in
 
  #20  
Old 03-08-2010 | 12:43 AM
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i just took the rocker blocks in and took the rockers off of them, but mark which assembaly came off of which cylinder be cause you want them to wear in the same spots as they did before.
 


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