cant wait to see pics and write up!!!

 

Transmission Breakdown Procedures
(again, no pics yet because I didnt have camera during breakdown however I will take some, the aren't very crucial for this part but I will borrow some figures from dodge for tough stuff)

1. Drain fluid from transmission

2. Remove torque converter from front of transmission

3. Remove throttle and shift levers from shafts

4. Remove overdrive housing bolts and pull overdrive housing off. (if you are rebuilding it as I am just set it off to the side, if not you need a shaft from the Stealership to keep clutches from losing alignment)

5. Remove overdrive piston (it’s the WHOLE large disc on back of trans, grab 2 opposing cast braces with a pair of pliers and pull slightly)

6. Stand trans on bellhousing face

7. Remove pan and filter

8. Remove park/neutral position switch and seal (Connector next to shift lever)

9. Remove valve body and governor (Remove as one unit using the hex bolts NOT the torx scattered all over the throttle body)

10. Remove accumulator assembly (Was under valve body previously removed)

11. Remove front band lever pin access plug (inside bellhousing at the bottom left of the pump – looks like a drain plug).

12. Tighten front band adjusting screw until band is nice and tight around front clutch housing(Keeps everything from falling apart while you pull the pump)

13. Remove oil pump bolts.

14. Remove oil pump. 2 of the bolt holes are threaded. Use a slide hammer and work each one LIGHTLY to remove pump from the housing

15. Loosen front band adjusting screw until band is completely loose

16. Remove front band strut and anchor (the bar and the wedge that push band tight)

17. Squeeze front band together and slide band over front clutch and out of case (rotating it slightly helps it clear the casting better)

18. Remove front and rear clutch assemblies together (keep them pressed together or they will fall apart)

19. Remove front band pin and lever (pin should slide easily out toward bellhousing access hole where plug WAS hole)

20. Remove intermediate shaft thrust washer (Triangular shaped washer may be stuck on prior removed shaft or rear hub)

21. Remove thrust plate from intermediate shaft hub (looks like a washer)

22. Remove intermediate shaft/planetary geartrain assembly

23. Loosen rear band locknut and loosen adjusting screw

24. Remove snap ring that holds low-reverse drum (cuss and swear because snap-rings are the anti-christ)

25. Slide low-reverse drum and thrust washer off piston retainer hub and out of rear band

26. The bearing race on the low-reverse drum is NOT removable!

27. Remove overrunning clutch assembly (If your carful the springs and rollers wont explode everywhere)

28. Remove rear band adjusting lever and pin

29. Remove rear band and rear pin (pin comes out through back of transmission)

30. Compress front servo rod guide with large C-clamp and special overpriced Chrysler tool (or a large socket) only enough to allow snap ring removal (commence swearing and cussing at snap ring).

31. Remove servo piston snap ring (don’t go Neanderthal on it, you can scratch the bore and then your screwed)

32. Remove tools slowly and remove servo piston and spring (if you didn’t use the overpriced Chrysler tool be cautious that the socket doesn’t slip out… the piston can bind on the snap ring lip… everything will fall apart… piston will turn into a projectile and lodge itself in your frontal lobe)

33. Repeat process for rear servo exercising same caution (I won’t be held responsible for you spending the rest of your life like Stephen Hawking over a rogue servo piston)

You are now as far as I am right now. So you cant go any farther yet either! LOL!

 

I know what your saying about the suncoast site on valve bodies it's since they got a new one over a year ago. But their 6xx valvbody comes with upgraded servos etc they work well. Only thing the local shop will use. They just plain work.

 

I heard they use the Sonnax Servos? I was very, very close to going with them! Like I stated the deciding factor for me was that I had no info or pictures of their servos, braces, etc so I had no idea exactly what I was getting. I love being over-informed. Especially if im dropping g 2gs. The other factor being I saved 25% off on the TQ converter! 300+$ off one item is nice! I ran the numbers and if I didn't do that id be stuck with a lesser single disc unit. Not that that is a bad thing... however for the money.

Still not sure if I should get a valve body OR if the shift kit I got will be good enough? I don't remember if the TransGo unit supplies the TQ Converter with fluid @ all times.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk

 

trust me on this a good valve body is worth it. I had a local shop tell me they can modify the stock valve body so I went with it I had so many issues it was crazy 2nd gear starts, lock up issues etc etc. then I went with an hts because the place I was buying parts from said they worked great had more issues(turns out the guy selling me parts only worked on 3rd gen dodges and they are different) then I take it in to the guys I use now they rebuild the trans add the suncoast valve body and no issues. also had to send my converter in to spec rite they had to fix the thing it had a turbo 400 bowl on it, wasn't shimmed correctly and the stator tube was rubbing. the trans ran so much cooler and my mileage went up. I have put so much money into my trans from people who knew but didn't know what they were doing I only have one place that will touch my truck now

 

Your pretty far from me or i would use your shop

I am still debating a valve body, but Suncoasts descriptions are terrible and they dont even lists the VB correct on their site... That stuff worries me... The bonus is that its something i can replace with tranny still installed... I may try the TransGo shift kit first... I think valve body would break the bank if not completely necessarily... I mean 1g is just... DAMN!

 

my vb I ran was 6xx not 1k so you must be looking at wrong item. ok found link to what I had. Sun Coast Diesel Transmissions - Dodge 47RE DC487 1996 - 2007 Valve Body | Catalog Products | Sun Coast Diesel Transmissions it's $699 200 core so you send yours in you get 200 back

 

Totally was... One i was clicked on was 899$ I see what your talking about! I looked before and didnt see that one? Maybe i didnt have the right search filters set or something. That one has a nice full description too! Would like to get that... I think that might be the straw that breaks the back though.

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Just for sake of argument I put everything i wanted in the cart on SunCoast... It broke the 4k$ mark... Now that IS with adding the 700$ valve body that i dont have currently... However, without it, I am still almost a grand over what I spent for what i got.
Thats why i was curious who made their billet gear. I had heard its all Sonnax parts.

 

I don't know. local shop only buys valve bodies puts the rest of the parts together from transmission parts house with all red alto clutches

 

PARTS!!!!